School starts up next week and we’ve had a couple of cool rainy days here, so I’ve got that summer’s-slipping-away feeling. I love fall, but I’m still craving a few more weeks of warmth and clear skies before the notorious showers of the Pacific Northwest set in for the long haul.

I was sent a bundle of samples from Esscentual Alchemy‘s creator Amanda Feeley, and it didn’t take long for me to choose the scent that will help prolong summer, even if it’s just from an olfactory standpoint. Blushing Beauty is a very pretty floral, abounding in sun-drenched blossoms and sweet resins. All of the notes are quite rich and heady from ambergris and benzoin to tuberose and frangipani, which belie my experience of Blushing Beauty. It’s as if the sweetest, lightest aspects of these essences have been distilled, exuding a gossamery depiction of their depth.

This is not to say Blushing Beauty is without complexity as its evolution is intriguing. It begins very floral and fresh, with a soapiness akin to a tiny decorative bar I imagine finding in an exclusive B&B  bathroom. Blushing Beauty then takes a   honeyed-beachy turn which (I think) comes from broom flower and white lotus. I’ve smelled broom flower in the past and remember its redolence of warmed delicate wildflowers alongside a coastal trail.  As for white lotus, this is pure speculation since I’ve only experienced blue and pink lotus, but my guess is that it brings the crispness and mildly herbal quality to Blushing Beauty as well as a suggestion of salt air. The drydown continues in the same vein, with a mellowing of the floral aspect and an allusion to woods provided by elemi, a tree native to the Philippine Islands.

Blushing Beauty has excellent sillage for the first couple of hours and slowly fades over the next two. It’s a good choice for those who want to delve into all natural perfumes as it’s wearable, very pretty, and captures one’s interest with its compelling composition.

Blushing Beauty is available at Esscentual Alchemy’s etsy shop. $30 for 5mls.

Image: “Fading Days” by bomobob on etsy

Posted by ~Trish

Disclosure: Sample were sent to me for consideration by Amanda of Esscentual Alchemy. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

My skin was acting strange this summer. It was simultaneously dehydrated and oily, and was not soft to the touch. I always drink lots of water, so I figured a search for an all natural skincare line that would address my skin’s needs was in order. Evan Healy’s line, eponymously named evanhealy, had been on my radar for nearly a year, but I’d never fully explored her website much less try her products on my skin. Honestly, I don’t know what took me so long.

The evanhealy website is full of great information and void of gimmicks. It’s all about less is more, pure ingredients, beautiful scents, and consumer education. You’ll find a link to audio files on the evanhealy website that describe many of her products and how best to use them. After being duly impressed with Evan’s philosophy -”the less you interfere with the skin’s own ability to achieve balance, the better”- I decided to reach out to her about my skin troubles. She recommended her Rose Face Care for my dermal woes and was generous enough to send me a kit for review on Scent Hive.

If you’ve read my “About” page, you know I don’t do negative reviews. My primary focus here is on products made by indie, all-natural-ingredient-using artisans and I have no interest in creating negative press about a small business, especially in this economic climate. So I love, or at least like, everything I mention on Scent Hive. In the case of evanhealy, I love (and adore, and treasure) this line because my skin loves this line! The Rose Face Care Kit was the ideal recommendation for me since its primary action is to “re-establish a healthy hydro/lipid balance to combination skin,” which is what my skin so desperately needed.

My love affair started with the Rose Cleansing Milk. It’s a smooth, clay based cleanser that lathers slightly and smells of fresh rose geranium and a touch of rosewood. Coconut oil, white kaolin clay, aloe vera and rose hip oil create a soothing cleanser that gently removes dry skin. My skin feels clean and supple after its use and the lingering scent allows the pampering feeling to last a little longer.

The love only grew as I discovered the Rosehip Treatment Facial Serum in Rose and its ability to hydrate my skin and make it glow with such a small amount. In the morning, its effect is like a primer, giving a smoothness to the application of my tinted moisturizer and boosting its hydration. At night, I apply the Rosehip Serum after spritzing with evanhealy’s Rose Geranium Facial Tonic Hydrosol which nourishes the skin with antioxidants. When I use the serum and hydrosol together, I wake up with hydrated, well rested skin.

For added moisturizing, the Rose Vetiver Day Moisturizer is exceptional. First off, it smells amazing. The vetiver is earthy and grassy while the rose and rose geranium are floral and luxurious. I have been using less than a pea size amount mixed with my tinted moisturizer on days that I need a little extra hydration and it not only does that job, but imparts a dewy finish that looks healthy, not greasy.

Finally, the love continues for the French Rose Clay Mask, a clay powder that you mix with water to create a paste. Of all the evanhealy products, this was the one I was skeptical about. I’ve used many masks over the years, a few have been helpful but never extraordinary, so when I applied a thin coat of this clay mask I didn’t have high expectations. I was proven wrong as my skin was clearer and softer than I had ever remembered- save for post-facial smoothness. Rhassoul clay (Moroccan lava clay) apparently lives up to its reputation as a detoxifier, exfoliator, and glow enhancer. I’ve also added a small amount of the French Rose Clay Mask to the Rose Cleansing Milk which augments the milk’s exfoliating action and boosts its lather. I like this routine after a hard work-out or a really long stressful day.

So there you have it. My new skincare love that’s all natural, mostly organic, and lovingly made. Yesterday morning I ran out of the Rose Cleansing Milk and felt a little panicky. My skin has responded so well to the evanhealy regimen, that I hated to miss even a day. Thankfully, I had placed my order just in time. My package arrived yesterday afternoon with a full bottle (as well as full sizes of everything else from the Rose Care Kit). The way things are going, I don’t think I’ll ever be without it.

Reviews of Evan’s Puja fragrance line and bodycare will follow. I also bought a Blue Face Care Kit with my order as it seems perfect for transitioning into the colder months when my skin leans dry and sensitive. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Rose Face Care Kit is $29.95 at evanhealy.com. It provides 7-10 days of treatment.

Posted by ~Trish

Disclosure: A Rose Face Care Kit was sent to me for consideration by Evan Healy. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Jordan Samuel Fragrances was created by Jordan Pacitti, a former corps de ballet member of the Pacific Northwest Ballet in Seattle. When I say “former” I mean he just retired from the company this summer and is now focusing on his business full time.

Jordan Samuel launched in 2007 while Pacitti was still dancing with PNB, and has now made the complete transition from established professional dancer to burgeoning natural fragrance artisan. Currently his website and etsy shop are stocked with four soy candles and a fragrance called Before. All of his products are handmade without the use of synthetic or toxic ingredients. Additionally, Jordan Samuel Fragrances are all certified organic, wildcrafted or natural.

The fragrance Before is dedicated to several people in Pacitti’s life who have struggled with cancer. Clearly, it’s a very personal creation, one that is sharp and vibrant, as well as soft and serene. Before is heralded with a mighty dose of crisp bergamot and juicy lemon, not for those who shy away from bold citrus notes as they move from the opening well into the heart. The exhilaration is tempered slightly by rose and vanilla in the middle and with more smoothing of the brisk edges in the drydown.

Before is also a candle that smells nearly identical to the fragrance. The main difference being an abundance of lavender that mingles with the bergamot and lemon. Before, the candle, is a well-balanced citrusy lavender that suffuses a room gracefully. It has a nice throw, but does not overpower the air with its scent.

There are three other candles currently on the Jordan Samuel website, all of which are cocktail inspired, my favorite being Mojito. The brightness of spearmint smells of freshly picked sprigs while a touch of lime and vanilla bring forth a lively sweetness that is cheerful and refreshing.

Margarita continues the citrus theme as lime mingles with mango and pineapple. The result is not as sugary sweet as the notes suggest though. When burning, this candle fills the room with a boozy margarita fragrance that’s heavy on the lime, the way I like ‘em. Then we have Bellini, a creamy/fruity concoction that smells of apples dipped in milk. The candle’s notes do not include apple, but rather organic peach, nectarine and champagne. Whatever the produce, it’s simultaneously fruity, crisp and velvety.

A fitting end for this review comes from the words of PNB Founding Artistic Directors Kent Stowell and Francia Russell. I can’t think of a more loving and heartfelt sendoff. “As both a performer and a friend, he created his own unique place within the Company and will be sorely missed. The wonderful consolation is that he is the perfect example of the retiring dancer who is fully prepared for his transition and as passionate about his second career as he has always been about dance.” Bravo!

Jordan Samuel soy candles are $25 for an 8 oz candle or $25 for the cocktail travel set.  Before the fragrance is $56 for 2 oz spray or $40 for a 0.5 oz roll-on.

Posted by ~Trish

1st Image: Pacific Northwest Ballet’s Jordan Pacitti in Agon. Photo: Angela Sterling ©. Source: The Seattle Times.

2nd image from JordanSamuel website

Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by Jordan Samuel Fragrances. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

For fall, Alima presents us with the Perfectly Tailored Collection, adding more lovely shades to the mix. Two of the colors, Velvet and Jacquard are “almost matte” while Brocade is a true matte, and Tulle is super shimmery. Here’s the color breakdown from the website with my commentary in italics:

“Velvet is a lush, smoky purple with a hint of shimmer.” This description is dead-on. Velvet is a dramatic eyeliner with a very subtle shimmer that is noticeable when the light hits your eyes. Beautiful!

“Tulle a super-sheer wash of golden shimmer, beautiful worn as a wash over other colors.” Another spot-on description. Tulle is buildable for a high, golden shine, but I prefer it with a light application on the upper-lash line for a warm glimmer.

“Brocade is a completely matte medium grey.” I agree that in the pot Brocade is gray, but on my skin it pulls blue. This is my least favorite color as its cool tone does nothing for my olive complexion other than wash me out.

“Jacquard is a pale cream with the softest touch of shimmer.” True again, but what this description does not mention is that it goes on skintone-sheer, like the nude/champagne duo, NARS All About Eve. It’s not an exact match as Jacquard is lighter, but the effect is the same.  A question you’ll see frequently on the beauty boards is, “who makes an affordable dupe of All About Eve?” Well, here it is and it’s all natural to boot.

My Swatches

left to right: Velvet, Tulle, Brocade, Jacquard

Perfectly Tailored Collection is $25, with $2 going to the Global Fund for Women, at AlimaPure.com

Posted by ~Trish

Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by Alima. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Kaitlyn ni Donovan is a musician and natural perfumer, as well as a fellow Portlander. It seems like the Pacific Northwest would be fertile ground for botanical alchemy, but she is the first that I have discovered from my environs. Actually, I found Kaitlyn via a reader’s suggestion and am thankful for the tip (thanks Angie!) as Vireo: Scents of Nature features some lovely gems. Her entire line is created from 100% botanical ingredients, some of which are homemade infusions like her Madagascar and Tahitian vanilla bean (in Coco Violette) and Lapsang Souchong (in Smoke Follows Beauty).

Kaitlyn finds inspiration from her natural surroundings and states, “Oregon influences my work because of its great natural beauty, diversity and accessibility to just about any landscape you are craving within an hour’s drive.” Luckily, you don’t need to drive an hour to find lush forest greenery in Portland which her Coco Violette evokes. The “violette” in this perfume stems from violet absolute which possesses a deep leafy green scent that’s unlike the powdery-sweetness typically associated with violet perfumes. By contrast, Coco Violette ushers in the pleasure of being shaded by basalmic branches and walking along trails of rich soil.

Coco Violette exudes a fruity/herbal quality as well. A twist of blood orange and a pinch of cardamom attenuate the earthiness of the violet absolute, giving body and fullness to its leafiness. Coco Violette is further grounded with orris root’s warm and mushroomy texture augmented by cassie’s soft and honeyed floral absolute. It’s here in the heart that Coco Violette becomes really pretty. Not that the opening spices, citrus, and deep greens are unappealing, quite the contrary. The topnotes are exceptional, but they make me pause and take note of what I am experiencing. Alternately, the heart allows me to simply enjoy the beauty of a lovely floral perfume, like settling into your favorite spot on the couch as you ponder that interesting thought that was with you moments before.

The base has notes of cocoa absolute, vanilla bourbon absolute,Tahitian and Madagascar vanilla bean, and costus, the result being a milky chocolate that is neither too sweet nor too foody. The creamy cocoa settles into its drydown among earth and warmth, which is a fitting resolution for Coco Violette.

Kaitlyn has created another warmth-filled fragrance called Smoke Follows Beauty which is perfect for sandalwood admirers. It’s not complex or wildly innovative, but it wears with a lovely clarity and purity that I have not found in most sandalwood based fragrances. Alongside sandalwood’s distinctness, is a softness that seems to emanate from smoky embers. High quality, sustainable sandalwood (from Vanuatu in this case) has creamy buttery undertones that Smoke Follows Beauty possesses in just the right amount. The softening of woody edges remains in the background, never disrupting sandalwood’s distinct scent.

Fir, guaiac, vanilla, hay, frankincense, and lapsang souchong are listed in the notes, and they give Smoke Follows Beauty fullness and warmth that would otherwise be missing in their absence. Nevertheless, sandalwood is the focus of this elegantly named fragrance that in my opinion holds its own against more well known sandalwood perfumes like Diptyque’s Tam Dao and 10 Corso Como.

Coco Violette and Smoke Follows Beauty are available on esty. 1/8oz for $12.

Image: She Danced in the City at Night by stilettoheights on etsy

Posted by ~Trish

Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by Vireo. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

“Songbird” is a lovely name. It’s a pretty word to speak, and the thought of songbirds is a charming one. But after several wearings, I have a new name for this perfume. I find Sensual Chameleon to be more appropriate since Songbird flows through several alluring transformations. No disrespect to Laurie Stern of Velvet and Sweet Pea, creator of this beauty. She has outdone herself with this fragrance, but sometimes a gal needs to come up with a nickname for a loved one.

Juicy blood orange is the entree to Songbird, reminiscent of the fruit dripping in its perfectly ripened sweetness. This opening is most succulent and reminds me of Laurie’s Orange Blossom Body Frosting -a decadent treat for the skin and soul- and I hoped Songbird would linger in this familiar scent for the duration. I so enjoyed the floral and gently spicy citrus aroma wafting about me, but sometimes it’s better to not have your wishes come to fruition as what laid before me was much more fullfilling that anything I could have hoped for.

Just fifteen minutes in, I was swooning over the evolution from citrusy fullness to the tea-like and slightly herbaceous glistening of boronia. I have grown to love boronia more and more as I explore it in natural perfumes. I adore its wild, all encompassing scent as it moves from woods, to jammy fruits, to culinary herbs and tannic teas. Boronia is also slightly floral, in a breezy way as if the blossoms have been baked in the beachside sun and then moistened again by the salt drenched water.

As the orange faded and the boronia became more pronounced, an enticing beeswax note appeared and brought Songbird to the level that made me think of it as the Sensual Chameleon. I was not expecting to be struck by a thick, dark honey scent after I had just been mesmerized by boronia. Songbird became suggestive of beeswax melting in a pan over a kerosene stove; a mix of heat, oil and pure sweetness, possibly an aspect of tuberose absolute.  I’m a little crazy for this particular scent in a perfume, and it’s a rare one. (There’s a Strange Invisible Perfume that shares this scent, and I will get to its review as some point I promise). Clearly, I reveled in this stage of Songbird’s metamorphosis.

One can remain in an olfactory stupor for only so long, so sandalwood came knocking at the drydown. Fortunately, the wake-up call was a gentle one. Smooth, vanilla soaked sandalwood kindly nudged me awake and I was pleased to spend time with such a grounding and smooth essence. And as you can surmise, I was more than pleased to spend time with Songbird in its entirety and experience its gorgeous evolution.

If you haven’t peeked at the Velvet & Sweet Pea website, please take some time to peruse Laurie’s enchanting aesthetic. I also encourage you to read her FAQ page in order to read more about how devoted Laurie is to using all natural essences, artisinal perfume making and her dedication to helping animals. Here is some information from her site that I find very salient:

Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Purrfumery perfumes are made by hand in small, carefully crafted batches, using only natural ingredients. (Commercial perfumes are made using a dizzying list of chemicals and synthetic fragrances.) The distinctive use of the word “botanical” is key to one of the core principles of the Purrfumery. Many perfumers who call themselves “natural” perfumers use animal products (such as civet cat musk or beaver castoreum) in their perfumes. These products are harvested from the animals under terribly cruel, species-endangering conditions, and so Velvet and Sweet Pea designate their perfumes as botanical to indicate that only nature’s plant treasures – flowers, fruits, seeds, leaves, and aromatic woods – are used in creating their delicious scents.

All Velvet and Sweet Pea perfumes are created in a base of organic alcohol or beeswax (because the base comprises 65-95% of a perfume, all our perfumes are almost entirely organic). Laurie also uses as many organic, wildcrafted, and sustainably grown ingredients as possible in all her creations.

Songbird is available at Velvet and Sweet Pea. 8 ml for $185, 15 ml for  $325, or 1 oz for $550.

In The Orange Blossoms by Hadley Hutton at etsy.

Posted by ~Trish

Disclosure: A sample of Songbird  was sent to me for consideration by Velvet & Sweet Pea. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Let’s start with Teak, a color that falls into my modus operandi. It’s a soft cocoa brown with a touch of pink and golden shimmer that looks really rich on the lower lash line when paired with a chocolate brown eyeliner. It adds a subtle flash of sparkle to an otherwise neutral look. Perfect for day and work.

Cranberry on the otherhand is not a color I would bust out during the workweek. It’s a bold violet eyeshadow that leans red and is less brown and more purple on me than what is pictured at right (from the website). But it is undeniably beautiful and I love it for evening on my lower and upper lashlines with a black kohl liner.

Freesia is another purple eyeshadow, but it plays with blue tones rather than the reddish-brown of Cranberry. This lovely lavenderish eyeshadow gives a hologram effect when used as a wash as the cool tones frolic with the warm shimmers. When applied as a wash over the entire eyelid, it’s very pretty and unique, but in my world, best suited for evening. When I have experimented with Freesia during the day, I’ve found that a light application around on the upper and lower lash lines give a hint of color while still being work appropriate as it’s very easy to blend out.

Staying with the purple theme, Fig was another beauty that caught my eye. Fig is not so much purple but rather a brownish plum that is nicely complemented by Teak. As usual, I wear Fig as an eyeliner on the upper and lower lashlines, a look entirely suited for day wear and work.

Aside from offering fabulous colors, Orglamix eyeshadows last the day, have flexible coverage, easy blendabilty and a smooth application. I also love that Orglamix products are free of parabens, sulfates, synthetic fragrances, synthetic dyes, petro-chemicals and phthalates. The above photos are from the Orglamix website and the swatches below were taken by me in natural light.

From left to right: Teak, Cranberry, Freesia, Fig

Teak, Cranberry, Freesia and Fig are available at the Orglamix etsy site. $4.99 for a 8gm pot of loose mineral eyeshadow with a sifter top.

Posted by ~Trish

Disclosure: Samples of Orglamix eyeshadows were sent to me for consideration by the  company. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Mediterranean travels have taken me to the shores of Italy, France and Spain. Of course I feel blessed to have experienced the azure waters, palm trees, and restful sun drenched beaches of the Mediterranean in these countries, but I have yet to meet the acquaintance of these waters in Greece or its islands. Greece is the destination I most frequently daydream about, and hope to make its beauty my reality someday.

The Peloponnese is the southernmost part of mainland Greece, and Peloponnesian is the name of an all natural perfume inspired by that region. Alexandra Balahoutis, creator of Strange Invisible Perfumes’ Peloponnesian, has tapped into what I imagine the air to be like in southern Greece; refreshing, crisp, warm and radiant.

The opening of Peloponnesian is brisk and green with woody topnotes courtesy of the oil from cypress twigs and leaves. Hydro-distilled orange and lime bring forth a sparkling clarity to its citrusy temperament while the basalmic tones add depth, warmth and a hint of sweetness. In truth, it’s not much different from SIP’s Atlantic, another gorgeous scent inspired by seafaring masculinity. Peloponnesian has more of a citrusy pop in its opening, making Atlantic’s lime notes feel subdued by comparison.

The drydowns of both fragrances run parallel to each other as they evoke beach-side citrus groves and salt tinged air, Peloponnesian maybe more so on the citrus aspect. But Peloponnesian has a sultry side to match Atlantic’s smoldering scent. If you’re familiar with SIP’s Musc Botanique’s explosive vegetal musk, you’ll find a more subtle take on that sexy botanical frenzy in Peloponnesian. Atlantic has it too, and Peloponnesian’s muskiness falls just between that and Musc Botanique.

Peloponnesian is an alluring scent of the Mediterranean that is beautifully constructed. The balance of citrus, sage, honeyed woods, and botanical musks lull me into my Grecian daydream as it wafts from my husband’s skin or from my own.

Peloponnesian is available at Beautyhabit.com, $160 for 50 ml. There is currently 25% off with the promo code: OPRAH. Good until August 13th, 2010.

Please visit the following blogs for more Mediterranean inspired scents. Many thanks to Ines and Elena for organizing this blog event:

bonkersaboutperfume

ismellthereforeiam

Notesfromtheledge

olfactarama

eiderdownpress

thenonblonde

waftbycarol

thehortusconclusus

arosebeyondthethames

ayalasmellyblog

katiepuckriksmells

sonomascent

illuminatedperfume

underthecupola

perfumeshrine

alliam-aredhead

Posted by ~Trish

The California Academy of Sciences came highly recommended as a family outing, and it’s well worth the steep price of admission as it is rife with glorious sights such as the 2.5 acre “Living Roof” and the “Rainforests of the World” exhibit. When you enter the rainforest, the humid fecundity overtakes all of the senses. It’s a spectacular exhibit. The butterflies are stunning and numerous, and after my interview with Avery Gilbert I couldn’t help but wonder if they smelled of vanilla or lemon.

Our drive home on the 1 and 101 highways offered much olfactory pleasure from eucalyptus, redwood bark, bay leaves, and lemon balm. But the air of the Oregon coast was unparalleled. The cool salty air refreshed and renewed me as I took it into my lungs. Douglass firs meeting the waters’ edge and rich damp soil soaked the coastal breeze as we walked up to the Heceta Head Lighthouse.

But of all the scents I experienced on our trip, none was more precious than the smell of my baby niece. I flew down to SF in a whirlwind earlier this summer to be at her birth, but this visit afforded my family and me time to just be with sweet baby girl. A few days ago, my older son asked me what “priceless” means. These last two pictures embody that concept more than my attempted verbal explanation.

Posted by ~Trish
Photographs by ~Trish and Trish’s husband.

Off to enjoy California! I’ll be back with some new scent adventures to share.

Posted by ~Trish

Image from NowPublic.com