My Blue Moon Review: Anya’s Garden MoonDance

I’m writing this review on the eve of the blue moon and the new year. This is also the day I decided to try MoonDance from Anya’s Garden for the first time. Coincidence? If it was, it was a subconscious bleary-eyed one this morning. Reaching for my sample I thought I was going to experience a heady tuberose fragrance as I remembered reading on NowSmellThis that MoonDance is an homage to tuberose. Well, there’s tuberose in MoonDance, but not in the way I had expected.



After applying this 100% natural perfume, the scent of violets radiated from my skin. If you’re thinking gentle and sweet violets, then MoonDance will hasten you to rethink your violet notions. We’re talking violets on steriods! The tuberose and jasmine heart of MoonDance supplies our little purple pansies with a hallucinogenic quality, more vivid and intensely sweet than any other violet fragrance in my experience. On my skin, the violet completely took charge of this perfume leaving tuberose and jasmine to lend their indolic fullness in a supporting role. The blend is balanced so harmoniously that the larger-than-life violet doesn’t smell like a tuberosey-violet, rather an amplified version of its inherent components.




MoonDance is a vivacious floral no doubt, but there’s an earthy haylike quality present from chamomile that I adore. The dried grassy aroma tempers MoonDance enough so it doesn’t become cloying or overbearing. After many hours of wear, the violet and white florals settle into a delicate bouquet with just a suggestion of woods. Anya McCoy of Anya’s Flowers isn’t quite satisfied with the use of florals and woods though, even if some of them are rare and exotic. She’s added the peculiar ingredient hyraceum.


I had no idea what this was until I corresponded with her to find out more. I wasn’t expecting to find out that it’s the fosslized pee and poo of the Dr. Seuss-esque named hyrax, pictured here. Apparently tinctured hyraceum has a scent akin to ambergris or oud and can also have a grassy scent due to the hyrax diet. (Who knew fossilized poop as well as chamomile would add that hay note I love so much?) There’s a very informative discussion on Basenotes regarding hyraceum and I encourage you to read it if you have any interest in learning more about it. Since it is fossilized from thousands of years ago, there is no cruelty involved when sourcing these critters’ rock-hard excrement.

(Never did I think I’d end a review with the words “rock-hard excrement”).

Moondance is $125 for 15ml of EdP and $75 for 3.5mls of Parfum Extrait at Anya’s Garden.

Posted by ~Trish

Red Orange Tan and Purple by Mark Rothko

Disclosure: A sample of MoonDance was provided for this review by Anya’s Garden. The opinons in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

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Highlights of 2009: A Joint Blogging Project

I started blogging about natural and botanical perfumery in 2009, and this will always be the year I began discovering the depths of its beauty. Scent Hive grew out of my love for perfume, but this passion has become more profound since I have been fortunate enough to meet some of the gifted people behind the creations. 2009 gave me the opportunity to meet Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums, Roxana Villa of Roxana Illuminated Perfumes and Julie Elliott of In Fiore, all extraordinary women devoted to the world of naturals. Each of them are fascinating individuals of course, but have a common trait of serenity in the midst of their bustling, independently-owned businesses which provide some of the most sumptuous fragrances I have ever come across.


Other perfumers that I have not met face-to-face, but with whom I have corresponded via email and phone quite a bit are Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes, Laurie Stern of Velvet & Sweet Pea and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes. All of these women are some of the kindest people you will ever know, and their attention to detail in packaging their orders is exquisite. Opening a box from an artisan who has put much time and love into her creations takes on a deeper meaning in this tight economy and mass-produced society.



It’s challenging to make a “favorites list” as there are so many fabulous perfumes I discovered this year. Nevertheless, I would like share some fragrances, beauty products, and experiences that have made an impact on me in 2009.




1). Reading Mandy Aftel’s Essence and Alchemy was a very poignant experience. Her book allowed me to delve further into the realm of fragrance, and appreciate the power of natural essences as a medium to transform and transcend one’s material world. It also provides a thorough history of natural perfumery and is very informative regarding the essences as well. I know Mandy has inspired many persons to become perfumers after reading Essence and Alchemy, and for me, it allowed my understanding and appreciation of this art to deepen and evolve.


2). Discovering DSH Perfumes’ 100% Botanical Perfume Collection was an olfactory highlight this year. Was I a kid in a candy store? Oh yeah. I wanted one of everything. Epices d’Hiver satisfied my need for a spicy, comfort fragrance this winter, and Yuzu will give me something to look forward to this spring when my citrus cravings ignite. Bancha is not available yet on the DSH website, but is here. I won’t reveal too much as my review is coming, but I will let you know that it’s Ayurvedic in inspiration, and entirely calming and beautiful.



3). Julie Elliott relaunched her body oils! In February 2009 I wrote about In Fiore’s Maia Body Oil, even though it had just been discontinued. Thankfully, Julie listened to the collective sigh of disappointment and has given us Jasmin Supérieur, the Body Oil formerly known as Maia. Julie reassured me that the formula has not changed, only the bottle which is more user friendly as it now has a pump. When I visited In Fiore this fall, I tested all of her Bath & Body Oils (there are seven, pictured above) and left with a bottle of Patchouli Royale which is made with the most gorgeous vintage patchouli from Grasse, France. I still have my bottle of Maia, or else I would have walked out the door with Jasmin Supérieur as well because it layers beautifully with Patchouli Royale.


4). Kahina Giving Beauty, is a line of skincare based on organic argan oil. Founder, Katherine L’Heureux, gives 25% of her company’s profits to educational and women’s rights programs for the women of the Moroccan argan cooperatives, an incredibly generous action. I have reviewed the line here, but wanted to let you all know that I have used this line almost everyday since I reviewed it, and will continue to use this lovely and efficacious skincare regimen.



5). I remain steadfast with Red Flower Guaiac as my favorite citrus fragrance. Its rich, zesty, citrus quality is unparalleled, and the more I wear it, the more I become attuned to its woody aspect. I have had the good fortune of visiting San Francisco three times in the last eight months, and Guaiac has been my fragrance choice for each trip. This uplifting perfume now speaks to me of California, warm citrus, and getting away.


6). Ajne’s Fleur Blanche is hands down, the most gorgeous gardenia fragrance…ever. And I’ll stand by that proclamation too. I’ve introduced enough perfume-lovin’ fiends friends who go gaga over it to know that I’m not the only one who drools over this beauty. It’s creamy and buttery, yet slightly smoky and woodsy, with a luscious hint of indoles. A common (and frequently undeserved) complaint with naturals is that they don’t last long enough. I have never found this to be the case with Fleur Blanche. It lasts from morning to night, and hints of its soft petals can be discovered on your scarf and blouse the following day.


7). I’ve already reviewed Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Body Frostings twice on Scent Hive, so you know I love them. I use them almost every night to soothe my dry hands and to fall asleep with their creamy floral redolence. It’s difficult to pick one that I like the best, since it seems to be whichever one I have on at the time. Kashmir Rose and Tuberose Gardenia usually compete for 1st place, but Orange Blossom edges in closely as I do adore neroli and have been enjoying using this as a neck cream at night.




8). Finally, becoming a part of the perfume blogging community has been most touching to me this year. As an avid reader of blogs such as NowSmellThis, Bois de Jasmin, PerfumeShrine, TheNonBlonde and IndiePerfumes, I feel very grateful to have been supported by them and anyone who has taken the time to read Scent Hive. The perfume-loving community is filled with the most generous, kind-hearted and intelligent group of people a gal could ever hope to engage with. Thanks to Lucy of IndiePerfumes and Jessica of NowSmellThis for meeting me this summer in NYC, you two are fantastic! And Angela, another NowSmellThis writer extraordinaire, thank you for swapping scents and stories over the past several months. And thanks also to Elena at PerfumeShrine for your advice and encouragement when I was getting this ball rolling. You all are awesome.


Please visit the following blogs for their 2009 highlights!

Perfume Shrine

Mossy Loomings

1000fragrances

Ayala Smelly Blog

Bittergrace Notes

Shoes,cake,perfume

Eiderdown Press Journal

Olfactarama

Roxana’s Illuminated Journal

A Rose Beyond the Thames

The Non Blonde

Notes from the Ledge

Under the Cupola

All I am a Redhead

Perfume In Progress

Savvy Thinker

I Smell Therefore I Am


Happy New Year to the Scent Hive community and all of your friends and family.


Posted by ~Trish


Gather ye Rosebuds while ye may by John William Waterhouse at artmagick.com
Primavera detail by Sandro Botticelli at visualstatistics.net

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Cyber-Monday Deals

Cyber Monday Deals:

DSH Perfumes: 20% off code HOL9 (reviewed here).

Beautyhabit: Last day to use 20% off code INSTYLE (they have a wonderful natural and organic section featuring many products that I have reviewed).

Jackson Sage: Storewide sale. Everything is 20% off today. (Reviewed here).

SpiritBeautyLounge: Last day for 20% off code “thanku20″. (They carry rms beauty which I reviewed here)

Posted by ~Trish

Image at Gawker.com

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The winner of the Jackson Sage Soften Up Salve is…

Girls Entangled

Alyssa! I’ll get your info to the lovely people at Jackson Sage and they will send you a full-size Soften Up Salve for you to enjoy.


And for eveyone else, don’t forget that you have until November 13th to take advantage of the buy-one-get-one free promotion they are extending to Scent Hive readers. Simply enter the promotion code “ScentHive1009″ in the comments at check-out and you will receive a second product for free. Check out my recent review for more information on this fantastic line of botanical skin care.


“Girls Entangled” Limited-Edition Screen Print by Sanya Glisic at etsy and check out her blog.

Posted by ~Trish

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It's a Crock

Wonder Woman

I know I’m not Wonder Woman. I’m a mom, I work. I try to make wholesome dinners, but I fail sometimes. OK, a lot of the time. So I bought a crock pot today, hoping that slow cooked, veggie laden soups and stews will save my family and me from vitamin D deficiency and whatever else might ail us. What does this have to do with natural perfumes and or beauty products? Nada. I just figured if I wrote it here on my blog, I might hold myself accountable and actually use the darn thing more than twice this fall/winter.

Do you have any favorite Crock Pot recipes? Please do share!

And the winner of the Sabon samples is… Katy! Congrats!

Posted by ~Trish

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Winners of Fire & Cream and Essentially Me Samples

It’s celebration time for three lucky Scent Hive winners! Lawladyda and WaftbyCarol won the giveaway for the Strange Invisible Perfumes samples of Fire and Cream. Entangled won the Essentially Me full set of ten samples. Congratulations! I will be contacting you by email for the necessary information.

Thanks to everyone for your comments.


Celebration Lee Krasner

Posted by ~Trish

Celebration by Lee Krasner at Artnet.com

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Cinquième Sens Olfactory Training: September Sessions

CinquiemeSens

 

Here is some information regarding Cinquième Sens’ Olfactory Training Sessions in New York City. The following is from Laura, at their Madison Avenue location:

 

Cinquième Sens is a well-known perfumery school, based in Paris just near the Eiffel Tower. Our New York training center is located at Midtown East, near to the Grand Central Station and we propose small group workshops for anyone who wants to learn about fragrances. Our method of work is interactive and we carry a particular attention to the quality of our trainings and the interactions between participants.

 

Would you like to test your sense of smell? Identify the different raw materials? Understand the vocabulary of fragrance? Gain knowledge about the perfumer’s work?

 

If so our trainings are designed for you! You’ll have the opportunity to work with our Olfactorium® which is a compact version of a Perfumer’s Palette and contains 48 raw materials and fragrances.

 

We currently propose 2 trainings depending on your needs and interests:

-          The Perfumer Palette September 16th (3 hours): an introductory session to measure your olfactory abilities and acquire methods for memorizing odors.

-          Introduction to Technique and Language of Perfumery September 22nd and 23rd (2days): an introduction to the universe of perfume from raw materials to fragrance classification.

 

Please contact Laura for more information, you can reach her at (212) 686-4135 or laura@cinquiemesens.com

 

posted by ~Trish

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Enfleurage, NYC Indie Scent Boutique

Enfleurage NYC

 

Has a perfume ever brought you to tears? Maybe it conjured up a beautiful or heartbreaking memory. Or maybe the fragrance itself was so overwhelmingly glorious that it overtook your emotional dashboard and the floodgates opened. I entered Enfleurage this past week with Jessica from Now Smell This and found myself in one of those moments. I had never met Jessica before that day, and was not keen on bursting forth with emotional lability in front of her. But when I took my first whiff of the boutique’s Tuberose Enfleurage Butter, my heart was full of longing, and indeed I wanted to cry.

 

We’ll delve into the longing part in a minute. Let’s have an Enfleurage orientation first. Enfleurage, the boutique, is in NYC’s West Village and is filled with fragrant distilled oils, moisturizing oils, body butters, teas, soaps, incense, etc. (For a detailed description of their offerings see NST’s review here). Enfleurage, the process, allows flowers to release their oils into a fatty pomade, typically over the course of several days, while being pressed between glass plates. Trygve Harris, the boutique owner, uses organic palm oil from Colombia as the fatty medium, and offers this as a fragrant moisturizer in butter form. Tuberose, gardenia, rose and rose glory bower (chiclé is the nickname) are the current varieties.


Enfleurage NYC

 

Indeed, the Tuberose Enfleurage Butter took my breath away and put a skip in my otherwise steady heartbeat. And if I had been alone inhaling this for the first time, my emotions would most certainly have gotten the better of me. I am attempting to figure out why this particular tropical white flower concoction created, and still creates, such a visceral response in me. I suppose it might be the utter purity of the butter. It’s simply solidified oil and tuberose oil. (Of course the painstaking process to render the oil from the tuberose is costly and time consuming).


The purity lends itself to a fragrance all together different from what I experienced in Carnal Flower at the Frederic Malle boutique. While Carnal Flower is most assuredly beautiful and very true to tuberose’s lush, green nature, Enfleurage’s Tuberose Butter is, well… more buttery. With its hint of plumeria, this tuberose is like buttery sweat dripping down a stalk of Hawaiian sugar cane. Salty, sweet, creamy, and oh so very tropical. Unbelievably gorgeous. It made me wistful for unattainable sultry breezes and warm sand in between my toes at summer’s end. But most of all, it was so darn overwhelmingly glorious. And the Gardenia Butter? It’s drop-dead gorgeous too.


Enfleurage1

 

Before Jessica and I left Enfleurage, with a jar of Tuberose Butter in hand of course, Trygve poured some frankincense oil from Oman on my arm. This was after I had dabbed on a tiny bit, and she said “Oh honey, that’s not nearly enough! Here you go!”  I balked at the amount she bestowed upon me, but as we walked into the hot and sticky city air, I realized Trygve knew exactly what she was doing. This frankincense is no ordinary frankincense. The oil is water extracted in a copper distiller and the result is refreshing and uplifting. I could not believe I was experiencing frankincense. Menthol, pine and camphor mingle in the opening. Minty woods unfurl in the heart; and a mild, decidedly non-churchy incense peeks in at the end just to remind you that this really is frankincense you anointed upon yourself. I had to go back two days later to get a vial, this time accompanied by Lucy, the creator of one my favorite blogs, IndiePerfumes, and her compatriot in scent, Leah, of Asking Leah.


I also had the chance to smell blue lotus which was an enlightening opportunity after wearing and loving Mandy Aftel’s Lumiere for many weeks now. It was fascinating to experience the essence on its own and realize just how present it is in the top notes of Lumiere. It’s very moody and tannic, and less floral than I would have imagined, never having smelled it alone.

 

This summer at Blunda, Strange Invisible PerfumesLe Labo, Caron, Frederic Malle, and Enfleurage, has been delightful and educational commiserating with fellow scent lovers, shop owners and fabulous sales associates while broadening my own knowledge of natural perfumes, one note at a time. 

 

Enfleurage; 321 Bleecker Street in the heart of Manhattan’s West Village

Trygve’s Facebook Page. Trygve’s Blog.

photographs by ~Trish

posted by ~Trish

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The Scented Djinn Giveaway Winner is….

Khamsa Winner

Holly! Congratulations on winning the bottle of Khamsa. I will get this out to you ASAP.


So I have returned from my whirlwind trip to New York which included the 50th anniversary party for my in-laws and a couple of sniffing extravaganzas to NYC. Reports of my fragrant discoveries will soon follow.


posted by ~Trish

“Screaming Banshees” A print of the original acrylic painting by Emily Balivet, 2005 on esty.


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Let's Have a Picnic.

Manet

 

We’re going off topic today. No perfume reviews to be had. No body products or cosmetics will be discussed. Instead, let’s talk about plates, cutlery and cloths shall we? I’ve never reviewed anything like this on Scent Hive, but I was approached by the people at myEARTH360.com to check out their green line of picnic-ware, and after perusing their website it seemed like a practical review for the blog. So let’s get to it!

 

Verterra Dinnerware

It seems like plates are a real bugger when it comes to eco-friendly outdoor eating. You simply can’t recycle paper plates. The ones that are wipeable are impregnated with plastic rendering them un-recyclable, and the untreated ones get soiled leaving them un-recyclable as well. So either you throw them away, or get a reusable/recyclable option. Of course you can use what you have which is always preferable, but if you are looking for a lightweight, sustainable option, check out “Dinnerware from Fallen Leaves”. Verterra plates are made from fallen palm leaves and are processed without chemicals, lacquers, or bonding agents. I was sent one plate and have used it several times, washed it, and even put it in the microwave. (They are microwave safe).  It’s held up nicely with just a few scratches showing, and my guess is that it would stand up to a summer’s worth of use, if not longer. And you can feel über-green about your purchase because when you have finally beaten your Verterra plate to a pulp and need to toss it, you can compost it if you do so in your household, and if you don’t, it will biodegrade in the landfill unlike that melamine plate from Target.

 

Aspenware WÜN

What’s WÜN? Wooden Utensils Naturally of course! And like Verterra, these forks, knives and spoons are compostable and biodegradable. But most importantly, as long as you don’t chew on them after your meal is done, reusable as well. As for function, the knife is the clear winner. I don’t think it could cut a steak, but it does the job of any standard butter knife. The fork is a little awkward, but picks up food just fine. As for the spoon, well… don’t expect to be slurping gazpacho out of it. It’s more like a fork without the tines. I was thinking it would be perfect for spreading jam. So the WÜN, I’m a little lukewarm about. If you’re at home and eating in the backyard, I say use the utensils you’ve got, even if they’re plastic. My mom has plastic forks and knives that she’s been using for at least 15-20 years and I don’t see them ever dying. If you don’t want to lug heavy cutlery to the park or camping and need to buy something new, give WÜN a try. See if they work for you. They’re made from logs that were cut down during logging and would have been left to rot otherwise, so once again, you can put on that green halo and feel all warm and fuzzy while you picnic.



SKOY

 

SKOY Earth Friendly Cloth

Here’s the item I’m really excited about! (Is it weird that I’m excited about a cleaning cloth)? These all natural, 100% biodegradable SKOY cloths are fantastic. I’d kicked the paper towel habit years ago without much difficulty, but I always have a roll of paper towels on hand, just in case. I hardly ever used them, until I had two kids. Two boys I should say. Now that they are getting older, and even messier, I find myself reaching for the paper towels more and more. I need to stop. I have also been wanting an alternative to the sponge. Most sponges are made from polyurethane, a petrochemical, and the natural ones turn moldy within weeks. Enter the SKOY cloth, a paper towel-sponge hybrid made from a cotton and wood-pulp cellulose blend. It looks like a thick, shrunken paper towel, but handles the job of a sponge. You can clean it in the dishwasher, disinfect it while it’s wet in the microwave (for 1-2 minutes) or stick it in the washing machine. I have not had it for more than a week, so I can’t yet comment on whether or not it gets moldy like a natural sponge does, but since it’s much thinner and less porous, I’m hoping it does not. It also gets points for the cuteness factor, I love the simple flower design.

 

Which leads me to flowers, scent, and perfume. I can’t help it. What’s your favorite fragrance for a picnic? Today, I’m picking Strange Invisible PerfumesMagazine Street. I treated myself to bottle while I was in LA at the end of July and am really enjoying how the vanilla opens up in the warmer weather. The sweet magnolia and grassy vetiver play well together and make for a flirtatious, and sexy summertime scent. Perfect for making your picnic a little more interesting.

 

my360EARTH.com discount for Scent Hive readers. Enter HIVE10 at check out to receive 10% off your first purchase. See the website for clothes, jewelry, baby bottles and sippy cups, as well as the above items. Promo good until Wednesday August 19, 2009.


Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe by Edouard Manet 1963 on Shafe.co.uk

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Los Angeles Sniffing: Part I

The reason for my Los Angelean journey was two-fold; to visit dear friends and attend Yosh’s perfume exhibit at the natural perfume studio, Blunda. Persephenie Schnyder, the owner of Blunda, has been hosting these events which allow perfumers to showcase their natural perfumes, discuss them, and most importantly, engage with us essence loving scent hounds.


SIP Boutique

But my Southern California adventure did not begin there. When my partner-in-sniffing-crime, duVergne, (who wrote about Ayala’s Blunda event here) picked me up from the airport, we headed straight for Venice. As some of you may know… this meant our destination was Strange Invisible Perfumes. I had never been to the SIP boutique, but immediately felt at home in the shop’s environment and plunked myself down at the bar which beautifully displays their Eau de Parfums and Pure Parfums. I knew duVergne and I would be there a while, and indeed we were. This was in large part due to Nic, one of the best, if not the best sales associate I have ever had the pleasure to meet. She was well versed regarding every scent and had intelligent and thoughtful comments about the fragrances whether they were on the test strips or on our skin. So yeah, we hung out with our new BFF for quite a while.


I finally got to experience SIP’s Black Rosette, an incredibly dry and resinous, leathery rose. Very unique and beautiful, but not quite what I wanted in the summer heat. (Come winter time, I could imagine wanting to cozy up to that one). Prima Ballerina is another rose offering from SIP, but entirely different from Black Rosette. It’s a pretty, rosy floral, with some sage and the subtlest of botanical musk making it an original rose, yet familiar and comforting at the same time. I’m in love with it and was this close to buying a bottle. What finally won the full bottle contest was Magazine Street, that perfect blend of vanilla and vetiver, with just a smidge of patchouli to really bring out vetiver’s herbal quality. I wrote about how much I adore Magazine Street here, so it’s no surprise that’s what I chose. Not to mention that in the Los Angeles summer heat, Magazine Street’s soft vanilla blossomed so elegantly. Yes…the deal was done.


Iris

We begrudgingly said our goodbyes to Nic and looked forward to the next day which started on the late side at The Little Next Door. (Many thanks to Ayala for that recommendation!) As fate would have it, Le Labo was unknowingly just a few blocks away. I had no idea I’d glean so much sniffing pleasure from a visit there. Again, a fabulous sales associate, Ellie, made all the difference. She was delightful to work with and allowed me to experience everything in the store at my own pace. Even though Le Labo does use synthetics, this is not always a deal breaker for me if I really love a fragrance and I am pleased to report that they do not use phthalates in their products. While most of the fragrances were interesting and unique, Iris 39 had me in its grip from the moment I sniffed it on the scent strip. So on the skin it went via their dry body oil. Le Labo’s Iris 39 brings forth the violet facet of iris that I love, but it’s not sweet or too precious. It’s also not powdery or soapy, but gently crisp without being woody. I need to spend more time with it, as well as the Oud 29 sample I received.


Le Labo was like a candy store as they have single essences, dried roots and herbs, as well as their Olfactionary for customers to explore. The Olfactionary contains vials of 40 essences, many of which I had never smelled. Tonka bean was probably my favorite single raw material. Alone, it smelled of tobacco, almond and vanilla. It was sweet and intoxicating. Ambrette oil had a beautiful contrast of sweet florals and boozy earthiness. Apart from the Olfactionary were jars of dried ambrette seeds which compared to the oil was much more tannic, similar to that of Hibiscus tea.


galbanum

Galbanum is not a part of the Olfactionary, but is available behind the counter to smell as well as at least 50 other raw materials. I was particularly enthusiastic about having the chance to partake in this cherished resin which blew me away with its grassy, bitter, herbal woodiness. It packs a mighty punch and I loved every inhalation! Smelling Le Labo’s iris root (orris) was also an extraordinary experience as I was stunned by its warm, mushroom-like quality and its simultaneous tang. It was not overly floral like the iris oil, and just the sight of these dried gems will take your imagination to an enchanted forest.

In the interest of keeping this post a reasonable length, I’ll continue it in a couple of days with more essence discoveries at Blunda as well as the details on Yosh’s exhibit!

Posted by ~Trish

SIP Boutique image from Citysearch
Iris image from http://www.herbarium.com/images/oldflowers/
Galbanum image from I Smell Therefore I Am

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Summer Pastimes and Fragrance. My Top 10.

Big thanks to Ayala from Smelly Blog and Ayala Moriel Parfums for organizing this gathering of bloggers to celebrate summer and its scents. The following are some favorite summer pastimes, and my perfume pairings. Please see the bottom of the post for the other participating blogs.


santa monica pier 1920

 

Sultry summer night in the big city: Ajne’s Fleur Blanche is a bold, sophisticated, true-to-life gardenia fragrance that would be perfect for strolling the streets of the big city, or dancing the night away. Fleur Blanche’s hint of smokey woodiness balances this heady indolic, tropical floral. It remains my favorite gardenia perfume and I consider it a must-try for any gardenia lover.

 

International travel (or as I call it, the perfume you grab as you are heading out the door on your most recent trip to Canada): Hermes Kelly Caleche EDT is a crisp green floral; harmoniously blended with mimosa, iris, tuberose, climbing rose and leather. Certain floral notes peek out more conspicuously depending on the moment. Mimosa’s high-pitched sweetness often appears in the top-notes, the powderiness of the iris and softness of the rose are sometimes more prominent in the drydown. Regardless, Kelly Caleche is always a gorgeous summer-ready floral embraced by elegant leather. It’s wearable in any situation, whether it be museum going, café hopping, or discovering your city/town on bicycle. Give it another a try if it’s been a while.

 

Summer siesta: I have two choices for this one; Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Tuberose and Gardenia Face and Body Frosting and In Fiore’s Dayala Body Balm. For sleeptime scents I love the ritual of smoothing a cream or balm on my hands. Even in the summer my hands are quite dry, and both Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Body Frostings and In Fiore’s Body Balms provide exceptional and luxurious hydration. VSP’s Tuberose and Gardenia is quite frankly… addictive. Vanilla bean infused organic jojoba oil creates the base of the scent and organic tuberose and gardenia enfleurage enhance this moisturizer with sensual tropical florals. As for Dayala, its jasmine grandiflorum is rich, luscious, and slightly indolic. Lemongrass in the Dayala blend provides a grassy green brightness, and the overall result is deep and beautiful.

 

The Farmers’ Market: Farmers’ Markets are filled with smells of fruits, herbs and yummy baked goods so Honoré des Prés Sexy Angelic was the first fragrance that popped into my mind for this summer scent category. I’m going to be lazy here and cut and paste part of my recent June review:

Sexy Angelic is an ideal gourmand scent for the summer. It’s a light air-spun confection that wears easily in the warm weather. Sexy Angelic is centered around a calisson accord which was inspired by the town of Aix-in-Provence in the South of France. Calissons are treats made from a paste of sugar, melons and almonds that are covered with royal ice (white icing). Sexy Angelic entices its wearer with notes of licorice from angelica seeds and I gotta be honest here, I-don’t-know-what from Hemlock flowers. If you do, please let me know!

So I’ll focus on what I do know, and that is that Sexy Angelic is delectable. The calisson accord is loaded with crystallized sugary-almond goodness that is uplifted by the herbal licorice aspect. It’s lovely on the drydown as the green herbaciousness dissipates allowing for honeyed woods to meld into a skin scent. It’s the farthest thing from cloying or heavy and it just might be the gourmand for those of you who don’t typically go for gourmands.

 

Something you’ll wear while tending to your summer garden: Bonny Doon Farm Rose Creme Parfum is made from olive oil, beeswax, jojoba oil, and Damascena rose wax. I don’t think this creme parfum was meant to be used as a moisturizer, but if you scoop out about a 1/4 teaspoon and rub into the top of your hand, you’ll find this beautifully scented rose perfume solid provides light hydration in addition to fragrance. When I wrote “it smells as if freshly picked rose petals have been infused into your skin, so tender and yet so vibrant” back in May,  I only had a sample of the Rose Creme Parfum. I have since purchased a pot ($16 for 0.5oz at Beautyhabit.com) and still feel the same way.

 

Beach scent: Estee Lauder’s Bronze Goddess. Vetiver and coconut. Guilty pleasure. What more can I say? I love this stuff.

 

Bar-B-Q scent: Ayala Moriel Parfums Tamya is no ordinary BBQ scent. On this summer menu, you need a Kir Royale as your drink and wild Coho salmon cooked on cedar planks on the BBQ. Tamya is Ayala’s version of a fruity floral; the fruits being cassis and yuzu, the florals jasmine, hyacinth, and frangipani (plumeria). Cedar contributes refinement and vanilla guides the way to a gorgeous drydown. A honeyed beeswax, ambery floral which is delicate yet mesmerizing.

 

Meditation/Summer Incense Scent: Roxana Illuminated Perfume Chaparral is earthy and herbaceous, using the woody essence of the California Chaparral. Roxana’s gentle and expert hand with Frankincense and sage allow this to be a very accessible and seasonless incense fragrance. Chaparral never becomes weighted down with dark and smokey cathedral imagery. Quite the contrary. California breezes flow on your skin when you wear this, providing a reverence for the “Cathedral of Nature” as you close your eyes and meditate on the breath that sustains you.

 

Best scent for an overcast day in the summer: Aftelier’s Orchid is perfect for those first days of summer that don’t start off as warm as you’d like. Oftentimes in the Pacific Northwest they are overcast and you need a little something juicy and spicy to snap you out of the doldrums. Orchid’s peppery opening commands your attention, grabs your hand, and leads you down a path of orange blossom bliss. As I said in my review, “It’s green, heady, lush, citrusy, and vital.” Indeed!

 

Best scent for hiking in the forest: Soivoholé Vetiver n Guaiac is deep and rich in its earthiness, and full of vitality in its lavender herbaceousness. It’s spicy and complex, and continually evolves, as do hikes through Nature’s beauty. Vetiver n Guaiac has terrific staying power to last through a strenuous hike. And just as you complete your journey, you will be rewarded with a sublime vanillic floral drydown.

 

Bittergrace Notes

I Smell Therefore I am

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Moving and Shaking

Perfume Shrine

+Q Perfume Blog

Savvy Thinker

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The Non-Blonde

Posted by ~Trish

Photo: Santa Monica Pier 1920 from Dr. X’s Free Associations

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Back From Vacation and In Fiore Winners

First, let me announce the winners of the In Fiore giveaway, Barbara and Tao. Congratulations! I know you are both going to love sampling Julie Elliott’s line.

Mt Baker

So I am back from an eleven day vacation that included the San Juan Islands, Vancouver Island, and Vancouver BC. Our boys were in tow which went surprisingly well, but was nevertheless exhausting and it is so good to be home. The above photo was our view while on Lopez Island. A stunning view of Mt. Baker, the water, and loads of trees. There was a claw-foot tub that overlooked this view, and the bathroom was stocked with a local soapmaker’s goods that were divine. Bathing Beauty is the name of her tiny operation, and it’s only available at the Lopez Island farmers’ market. If you ever find yourself on this laid back, beautiful island, be sure to pick up her bar soaps and solid scrubs shaped like pastries.

Arghand Pebble Soaps

Next stop was Vancouver Island which included Sidney, Victoria and the quaint seaside town of Comox. A dear friend that I went to midwifery school with lives in Comox, so off we went to visit her and her family. Having my boys and husband on this trip, I knew I would not be getting in much perfume/body product shopping. But who knew perusing guest bathrooms would offer such opportunities? I was pleased as it was with my Lopez Island trials of Bathing Beauty products and then actually being able to buy them at the farmers’ market. When I stumbled upon a dish of Arghand soaps (Jessica wrote about these on Now Smell This about a month ago) in our Comox guest bathroom, I was surprised and elated. Fortuitously, they were a gift that had been purchased at a local pharmacy. Needless to say, I was more than happy to do my part in supporting the Arghand Coop that makes these soaps in Afghanistan, as well as the Comox economy. The above photo is of the Arghand Pebble Soaps and the bowl was made by ceramic artist Jeff Hanks and is available at the Chimera Gallery on Lopez Island.

Ayala

Vancouver BC was our final destination which for me, was one of the highlights. Not only is this city gorgeous with its mountainous, Pacific Coast splendor, but I was honored to have tea with natural perfumer, Ayala Sender. What a treat to chat with her and browse her entire collection. We sipped one of her delicious blends of tea, ate her perfumed chocolate truffles and homemade tea cookies. She was such a lovely host and even though we were able to visit for nearly three hours, I could not believe the time had flown by so quickly. I have exciting news to report: we Ayala Moriel Parfums fans have something very special to look forward to as Ayala will be launching a new perfume this fall. I am going to wait to review it, but I will say this…I love it!

I also found a new favorite clothing store called Maiwa. I was sitting with my husband and sons at Granville Island Market having a much needed late morning snack. A boutique caught my eye filled with beautiful Indian blockprint clothing, scarves, bags, bedding, etc. I celebrated my birthday while we were away, but had not picked out my gift yet. Well, as soon as I stepped foot in the shop, I alerted my husband that Maiwa was the place my birthday gift redemption would occur. Not only was I surrounded by sumptuous beauty, but the clothing and textiles are made by skilled artisans who are a part of a cooperative and have great respect from Maiwa’s founder. Maiwa is a part of the “Slow Clothes” movement which is in opposition to the factory approach to life and embraces the human involvement in all aspects of the production of their clothing. Not unlike small independently owned natural perfumeries, don’t you think? Their artisans also use natural dyes whenever possible like henna, marigold, and pomegranate. Since Maiwa’s products are only available in their store, I might have to make a pilgrimage back to Vancouver BC in the next few years to visit Ayala and buy more “Slow Clothes”.

Orca and baby

I hope many of you have had the chance to travel throughout the San Juan Islands, Vancouver Island, and Vancouver BC. The area is stunning, relaxed, and makes for a fabulous vacation. We really enjoyed the ferry rides, and even saw orcas on the way to Vancouver Island. Breathtaking!

Posted by ~Trish

Photos by ~Trish

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New Scent Hive Banner designed by Hadley Hutton.

Did you notice the new banner? It was designed for Scent Hive by Hadley Hutton. Here’s a little bit about this amazing artist.

 

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                                                                        pansy perch

 

Hadley grew up in a home filled with color, with a mother who felt that humanity’s greatest invention was the color wheel. Hadley recalls her mom changing wall colors as often as other people change the sheets. Being surrounded by a vivid palette profoundly influenced her. But rather than paint walls, Hadley’s outlet for her hereditary color addiction is her easel.

 

On the day little Hadley met an artist who painted for his profession, she formulated her dream of becoming an artist. Her exact words were, “People get paid to do this?” She soon encountered a major obstacle on the path to realizing her dream: the bunny incident. At the tender age of seven, Hadley was unable to draw a bunny as beautifully as her friend Monica. She threw a Richter-scale tantrum, screaming “I can’t draw!” Somehow Hadley found the resolve to keep drawing despite the nay-sayers (including, most notably, herself). She continued to draw, and on and on she drew, right through her graduation with honors from the San Francisco Art Institute. Today Hadley lives her dream working as an illustrator and artist in her hometown, Portland, OR – where she has yet to perfect the bunny.

 

Hadley’s work is a blend of traditional painting and modern design. She draws inspiration from Asian patterns and motifs, Victorian die cuts, and geometric designs. Her work explores nature’s beauty, people’s influence on their surroundings, and the environment’s influence on people. The works are layered with colored pencil and watercolor pencil drawings, ink, archival digital media, pastels and encaustics.

 

Hadley’s Philosophy: Less is more. (Except in the case of art supplies – where too much is never enough.)

 

Please visit Hadley’s website and etsy shop.

 

Posted by ~Trish

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Another Demeter Vintage Naturals Giveaway!

VN-Geranium-LeftYou all are going to benefit from my mistake. I inadvertently wrote that I would be announcing the Vintage Naturals Rosebush winner on June 1st when I meant to say May 25th. Well, I announced it, and then saw my mistake. So…I will be giving away another 15ml bottle to take care of the confusion. For those of you who entered the Rosebush giveaway, you will be automatically re-entered (except of course Sharon who won!). For those of you who were waiting to comment, or for anyone else who wants to enter, feel free to comment and you’re in!

 

This giveaway will be for Vintage Naturals Geranium. I have not tested this, so the bottle is brand new. The notes are listed as Lavender, Geranium, Patchouli and Cedar. Just make any comment; why you like geraniums, are happy for summer, or just say hello. This time the winner will be announced on Monday June 1st. Good Luck!

 

The winner has been chosen!

 

Posted by ~Trish

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The Winner of Demeter's Vintage Naturals Rosebush is…

bulleid3Sharon! Congrats on winning this lovely natural perfume. And thanks to everyone who commented on both Part I and Part II of my Rose Series. It was a pleasure to focus on one floral note, especially one that I had not fully appreciated or thought I was particularly fond of. Please keep your eyes on Scent Hive in June for more fabulous giveaways!

 

Posted by ~Trish

Girl With Rose Basket by George Lawrence Bulleid on artmagick.com

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Rose, the scent that snuck up on me. Part I

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I have never considered myself a rose type of gal. Certainly I enjoy strolling through our rose gardens here in town, and in our front yard we have the most gorgeous rose bush and its fragrance is one of my anticipated summertime pleasures. But while I have a nature lovin’ appreciation for this classic flower, I have never sought it out in my fragrances, or so I thought. Over the past several weeks, I have noticed that in my collection of perfumes and body products, there’s a lot of rose I was not appreciating.


t_16666Daybreak Lavender Farm: By U, 4 U- Aromatherapeutic Rose & Rosehip Facial Cleanser

I have to thank Dain over at ARS Aromatica for her post on Daybreak’s skincare, or I might never have found this fabulous cleansing oil. Jody Byrne, the owner of Daybreak Lavender Farm, created By U, 4 U Facial Oil because so many of her customers were clamoring for a cleansing oil and she listened. From what I understand, she took input from the customers via the forum board on Daybreak’s website to help formulate the cleanser. And the end result is my new favorite cleanser. I have been looking for an all natural cleansing oil since I feel in love with Shu Uemura’s, but unfortunately found that its main ingredient is petroleum derived mineral oil. Luckily, I enjoy Daybreak’s even more and am happy to support an independent business woman who runs an organic farm!

The oil itself is infused with chamomile, comfrey and calendula. The vibrant and vital rose scent comes from rose otto and rosehip seed oil, also known as rosa mosqueta. The rosa mosqueta endows the facial oil with its wild, almost thorny fragrance, as if you’d been out in the garden all day with the essence of the entire rose plant surrounding you. According to Jody, rosa mosqueta contains fatty acids that help maintain healthy skin and natural tretinoin that aids in cell regeneration. After only using the oil for a short while I’m not ready to comment on life changing results, but it’s an effective cleanser, leaves my skin soft and smells absolutely wonderful.

Update: I have since discovered that the “wetting agent” used to make the By U 4 U Facial Oil is Polysorbate-20, a chemical derived from petroleum.

Roxana Illuminated Perfume: Rosail_430xN.62639121

I have only a sample of Rosa, and would never have thought I’d be pining for a full bottle of something based around rose. But I reach for my little vial frequently enough that it’s just about gone, and it would be fabulous to have an Illuminated Perfume French flacon arrive in one of its hand crocheted pouches filled with this woody rose natural perfume called RosaRosa’s rose is comprised of an otto (essential oil) from Turkey and an absolute of rose bourbonica from India. But before you sense the full blossoming of those gorgeous flowers; woods, agarwood (oud), vetiver and subtle leather introduce the fragrance. The woods/agarwood begin slightly sharp but rich, and then mellow into vetiver’s deep earthy vibration. When the rose finally blooms at the drydown, Rosa’s bouquet is full but close to the skin. It’s complex and provides a beautiful evolution on your skin.

Bonny Doon Farm: Rose Creme Parfum

17119-300This creme parfum was quite a surprise to me. I had never heard of the company, but gave it a try when a little sample pot arrived in a Beautyhabit order. I was blown away. To begin with, the creme is like a balm that spreads over the skin readily, absorbs quickly, and provides hydration. (I’ve been applying it to the top of my hand). And the scent is pure rose heaven. It smells as if freshly picked rose petals have been infused into your skin, so tender and yet so vibrant. Aromatherapists believe rose can calm, relax and even open one’s heart to love. This little pot of creme has made me a believer! It also feels good to support Bonny Doon, a farm in Santa Cruz, Ca. owned and operated by Gary and Diane Meehan. A true mom and pop business.

Frosting_KashmirVelvet & Sweet Pea: Organic Kashmir Rose Neck & Decollete Whipped Frosting

Laurie Stern of Velvet & Sweet Pea has really outdone herself with this body butter. She calls them frostings, and they are decadent enough to deserve the name. Each one is hand-made by Laurie with organic shea butter, organic virgin oil de coco creme, vitamin E and organic jojoba oil that has been infused with vanilla bean. The lovely rose scent comes from Himalayan rose otto and Moroccan rose absolute. Smoothing the luxurious frosting on my hands is a ritual reserved for those times when I feel like I really need some pampering. The rose is subtle and mixes well with the not too sweet, perfectly spicy hint of vanilla. I love this rose treat and will be sure to always have a little jar at the ready. I say little, because the jars are only one ounce, but a tiny dab is all you need to moisturize both hands and to delight in Kashmir Rose’s redolence.

Read on for Part II.

4 U By U oil is available at Daybreak Lavender Farms

Rosa is available at Roxana Illuminated Perfume’s Etsy shop

Bonny Doon Farm Rose Creme Parfum is available at Beautyhabit

Velvet & Sweet Pea’s Organic Kashmir Rose Neck & Decollete Whipped Frosting is available at Velvet & Sweet Pea’s website.


Posted by ~Trish

Orange Crush photograph by beatriceclay on etsy

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Scents & Serendipity; Ayala & Persephenie Part II

BACK TO BLUNDA AboutB_Natural_Perfumes

If you live in Los Angeles or are planning a trip anytime soon, you must call and make an appointment to visit Blunda Aromatics or just stop by on a Saturday. The studio is magical, as is the creator Persephenie Schnyder. She offers private lessons in natural botanical perfumery, bath and body care, aromatherapy, candle making and more. Blunda also specializes in a wide range of natural botancial perfumes, essential oil pharmacopeia, exotic herbs, roots, and resins from around the world, educational showcases and lessons, and last but not least, collectible treasures.

Just a brief wend through the space during Ayala Sender’s Hanami’s showcase, and one small area caught my attention — a group of narrow shelves featuring five vastly different types of Frankincense from Ethiopia, India and Somalia, along with Myrrh, Costus Root, Agarwood, Labdanum, and a small nugget of Ambergris.

Because I am new to this, I had to Wiki and Google many of these substances. And it was a strange and whimsical gift to look them up, I have to confess. Now I know Agarwood (also known in the West as “oud” or “oude”) is a highly aromatic resin that is produced from several types of Aguilera trees — large evergreens — once they become infected with a type of mold or fungis. The trees immune response creates a rich dark resin in its heartwood which in turn impedes the spread of the fungus, and the result is a very prized and rare fragrance.

And I’ve learned the hilarious traditional harvesting process of Labdanum, an essential component of chypre perfumes. Labdanum is a sticky dark resin originating from two types of rockrose shrubs. Perfumeshrine has an excellent entry on this healing miracle substance here. Although the modern method is far less imaginative, the old school harvest of Labdanum involves running herds of he-goats through groves of rockrose shrubs so that the beautiful, rich fragrant resin collects on the goat’s beards and is then combed out and saved. That’s right! According to some legends, ancient pharaohs would cut the goat beards and wear them because of the resin’s rich odor.

And lastly, there on that shelf was a small nugget of rare Ambergris. With its sweet, earthy, animal and marine odor, Ambergris is created by waxy, solid grey whale spit-up that turns black and crusty after years of floating on top of the ocean. Amidst all the gentle chaos of the Hanami showcase, Persephenie took the time to explain the origins of Ambergris to me and to invite me to smell it — and anything else in her studio of wonders. This world of rarities and exotic substances sounds sublime, doesn’t it? You can be sure I’ll visit again.

~Please visit the Blunda website to discover Persephenie’s offerings.

~Also see Part I of this article here.

~duVergne Robert Gaines: a neophyte to the odor order, is a professional feminist and occasional poet. She lives in Los Angeles near the La Brea tar pits with her partner David Riley Shackelford and their two cat children, Trotsky and MadX.

Posted by ~Trish

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