Ona! Actually, you will receive minis of both L’eau de Emblem Rouge and L’Emblem Rouge by EnVoyage Perfumes. Enjoy! (The original winner never got back to me, so Ona is the new winner).
Image of Bourbon Rose by nomad123 on flickr
Author Archives: scenthive
L’eau de Emblem Rouge by EnVoyage Perfumes
Dabney Rose, creator of artisanal flower waters, is the woman behind one of my favorite face treats, which is loving called Pretty Face Spray. Dabney distills organic and wildcrafted flowers- many of which are grown in her own garden- into beautiful hydrosols which retain the plants’ nutrients and subtle scent. Pretty Face is one of my favorites since it contains the hydrosols of camelia, rose, green tea, evening primrose and tuberose.
It’s only been in the past few years that I have become a regular user of hydrosols which are different than toners. While some toners do have hydrosols in their formulas, they are more astringent than hydrosols which act more like “softeners”, preparing the skin for a moisturizer or providing a refreshing mist in the middle of the day. I also spray hydrosols on my foundation brush after dipping it in mineral makeup to give some extra hydration. I find this helps impart a more satiny finish and decreases the chance of the powder becoming chalky.
When I received word that Dabney had collaborated with Shelley Waddington of EnVoyage Perfumes to create a hydrosol from her newest perfume, my interest was more than piqued. I was intrigued that L’eau de Emblem Rouge is a flower water distilled with L’Emblem Rouge the perfume. But if you’re like me, I was having a hard time wrapping my brain around the perfume-hydrosol hybrid, so I wrote Dabney for clarification.
She explained that she began the process of L’eau de Emblem Rouge with Bourbon roses which are known for their lush and fruity scent. Along with the fresh roses, she also used Bourbon rose water that had been previously distilled, which is called double-distillation allowing for a stronger rosy fragrance. Once the water, Bourbon roses and Bourbon rose water were steaming, Dabney added L’Emblem Rouge on top of the distilling rose petals and let the magic unfurl.
The resulting flower water is extraordinary. Its sweet scent is rose happiness with a gentle measure of sandalwood and benzoin. But remember, this is not a perfume so the fragrance of L’eau de Emblem Rouge is meant to be light and ephemeral, which is how I prefer hydrosols. As a “softener” L’eau de Emblem Rouge feels nourishing, comforting and does a terrific job at prepping the skin for a moisturizer whether it be cream or oil.
The notes for L’Emblem Rouge are listed below and a lifetime gift of five percent of all L’Emblem Rouge proceeds are donated to Broadway Cares, a leading nonprofit AIDS fundraising and grant-making organization.
Top Notes: Cassie, Mace, Cinnamon, Bitter Orange, Juicy Grapefruit, Green Pepper, Iranian galbanum, Violet, and Cistus
Heart Notes: Iranian Rose Otto, Ylang-Ylang, Heliotrope, French Jasmine sambac, Violet, and Honey
Base Notes: Guaiacwood, Sandalwood, Copaiba, Vetiver, Cedarwood Virginia, Tolu Balsam, Benzoin Siam, Tonka, Vanilla and Ambergris.
I have my own collaboration going on today with Carrie Meredith of eyeliner on a cat. Please head over to her blog for a full review of the perfume, L’Emblem Rouge. She and I are hosting giveaways for a mini roll-on of L’Emblem Rouge edp and a mini spray flacon of L’Eau de Emblem Rouge, so leave a comment on both our posts and increase your chances of winning! Drawing is now closed.
L’eau de Emblem Rouge is available at EnVoyageperfumes.com $25 for 0.35oz. L’Emblem Rouge, the EDP is $115 for 0.5oz or $40 for 0.25oz.
Image from The Glory of Roses by Allen Lacy
The winner of Orcas by Ayala Moriel Parfums is…
Bellatrix! Yahoo and congratulations! You are going to love this uniquely gorgeous perfume.
Image from eaglewingtours.com
Orcas EDP. A natural marine fragrance by Ayala Moriel Parfums.
Riding the ferries throughout the San Juan Islands is a memory that conjures up fresh marine air, gorgeous vistas of the northernmost Cascade Mountains and tall evergreens that meet the water’s edge. I find it challenging to describe the feeling of being on the water amidst the Pacific Northwest’s humbling beauty so I’m going to rely on my trustiest source for help, National Public Radio.
So I was listening to NPR the other day, Here and Now to be specific, and Robin Young was interviewing the writer Touré about his recent essay in the New York Times on writers writing about tennis. In the interview, which captivated me as I am an avid tennis player, Touré read David Foster Wallace’s description of Roger Federer’s style of play:
“Inspiration, though, is contagious, and multiform — and even just to see, close up, power and aggression made vulnerable to beauty is to feel inspired and (in a fleeting, mortal way) reconciled.”
When I heard those words read aloud, I nodded in agreement, not only because Federer is such an incredibly powerful yet balletic athlete, but also because these words can be applied to most anything sublimely beautiful. His quote embodies my feeling of being on that boat, surrounded by the overwhelming grandeur of nature which as Wallace said, is made vulnerable to its own beauty.
Orcas by Ayala Sender, is an homage to the unique land and seascapes of this region and the Wild Pacific Trail in particular which runs along the westcoast of Vancouver Island. Like all of Ayala’s fragrances, Orcas is expertly blended and as a result the natural materials move like water over a stone, seamlessly and fluidly. The opening is the one moment you’ll take notice of a singular note, as a bitingly green burst of lime initiates the Orcas encounter. Quickly though, after just a few minutes, the remaining notes begin to swell.
Spruce, moss, rosemary and seaweed tumble together in an herbaceous and slightly salty wave, ushering in exhilaration, and renewal. Another passing wave brings forth violet leaf and cedar which heighten the herbal and basalmic aspects of Orcas in their own unique way. Violet leaf is deeply green and leafy thereby ramping up those tones in the rosemary and seaweed while cedar’s smooth and dry quality imparts the spruce and moss with warmth.
In truth though, all of the notes complement each other and meld into one another making note deconstruction feel a bit insignificant. In the end, Orcas stands as a gorgeous, all natural oceanic fragrance that bathes the skin in a maritime-woodland dew. But for those of you who are drawn to vetiver and ambergris, I will say that the drydown has something very special in store for you.
Above is a photo of Ayala Sender in her studio. I took it two summers ago when my family and I visited the San Juans, Vancouver Island, and Vancouver BC where Ayala lives. She has graciously offered to give away a EDP mini to a Scent Hive reader. Just leave a comment and you will be entered. If you have a favorite from her line, please share it! Drawing is now closed.
Orcas is available at ayalamoriel.com $120 for 15ml splash/spray bottle or a 4ml mini for $45.
Photo of ferry and Mt. Baker is from Panoramio.com
Disclosure: A sample was sent to me for consideration by Ayala Sender. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.
Amberene by Liz Zorn
My newest perfume love is a little unexpected as a fragrance centered around an amber accord is not what I usually gravitate towards on a warm summer day. But I’ve been digging through my sample stash lately, and when the name “Amberene” piqued my interest, I threw caution to the wind and gave it a try.
Amberene is part of Liz Zorn’s Demi-absolute collection which are high concentration eau de parfums (18-22%) and include all natural fragrances as well as “Mixed Media” which are mostly natural, but do utilize synthetics. Amberene is one of her all natural offerings, of which there are many on her site.
If you’ve never worn a Liz Zorn creation, you really should. Her perfumes are almost always complex and intriguing so even if you don’t fall head over heels in love with something, you will most certainly appreciate the experience. Amberene is one of her creations in which, for me, love and intrigue come together.
I know there’s nothing particularly newsworthy about a spicy amber, or one touched by pathchouli and floral notes, but it’s the chosen essences that feel inventive. To start, Amberene is given a refreshing sparkle from grapefruit and clove which is the perfect entrée to this lighthearted amber. The hit of piquant citrus speaks to the warmth of summer while the clove keeps it spicy and appropriate for cooler temperatures.
The heart of Amberene is exceptionally beautiful as the classic pairing of heliotrope and violet surfaces and quietly engulfs the citrus topnote leaving only a whisper of clove. Tonka is also present and mingles joyfully with violet and heliotrope, like a modern Guerlinade confection. The powdery violet, almondy heliotrope and vanillic tonka are inherently soft and sweet, which provides the ideal setting for cardamom and cinnamon to lend a spicy-earthy quality while maintaining a feeling of comfort and familiarity.
The drydown is where you’ll find the true ambery essence of Amberene. Benzoin steps up in this late stage bringing the culinary spices along but leaving the florals behind. I sense a touch of labdanum and maybe a hint of woods, but really, this amber base is all about the benzoin. And this is a very good thing. Benzoin alone encompasses what I love in a perfume. It’s sweet, earthy, a little musty, and wafts a most intoxicating vanilla aroma.
Liz Zorn states that Amberene can “easily be worn for daytime and as a year round soft amber.” I am in full agreement. For these late summer days, the bright opening combined with its soft ambery-violet glow melds right into the skin along with the warmth of the sun. And I anticipate that Amberene’s sweet florals and cozy spices will be the perfect antidote to the winter blues.
Amberene is available at LizZornPerfumes.com 11 ml for $35 and 35 ml for $95.
Disclosure: A sample was sent to me for consideration by Liz Zorn. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.
Image: Fire Fanices by Arthur Hacker at artmagick.com
My recent Spirit Beauty Lounge splurge
Here’s a peek at my recent SpiritBeautyLounge order. Of course my favorite part of receiving an SBL package is the goodies inside, but I also love the entire presentation. The sweet pink tissue paper, the way in which each item has been carefully placed in the box, and the always generous samples make an SBL haul, a special haul.
I haven’t tried the Rahua hair samples yet, but you can be sure that lollipop went right into my mouth as I unearthed the Kahina Toning Mist that I’ve been wanting since I read Dain’s review as well as the Intelligent Nutrients Finishing Gloss that will replace my almost empty bottle.
I reviewed the IN Finishing Gloss last fall, and it’s back in heavy rotation this summer. I’ve taken to mixing a few pumps of the gloss with Weleda’s Rosemary Hair Oil and warming it all over my hands. I then run my fingers through my hair and pat the hair that frames my face to give it a little extra help tamping down the frizzies. A nice combing and an air drying gives me soft, pieced-out waves. Of course a great haircut also helps, but this method tames my thick, frizz-prone hair like nothing else.
In addition to my order, SBL included a Wild Rose Lip Balm by Phoenix Botanicals for me to sample for possible review, and I am so glad they did. I adore this little balm! Its cute design belies its 100% biodegradable packaging with sweet illustrations and a sturdy feel. I love how you pinch the bottom of the tube to access more balm which also makes it easy to use every last bit. The balm itself goes on smoothly and hydrates just as well as my holy grail of lip balms, Dr. Hauschka’s Lip Care Stick. The balm itself is a bit thinner than the Dr. H balm, but it feels supple and does the job.
As for the Kahina Toning Mist, I love it too. I would be hard pressed to do a more thorough job at reviewing the toner than Dain already has done, so please check out the above link to her blog, ARS Aromatica. Suffice to say, I am in full agreement with her rave review.
Oh, and I almost forgot to mention my fabulously efficacious Soapwalla Deodorant Cream! I wrote about this product last summer and am thrilled that SBL has included it in their offerings. It’s a simple, all natural deodorant that truly works.
Intelligent Nutrients Finishing Gloss is $29 for 1.7oz, Kahina Toning Mist is $36 for 1.6 oz, and the Phoenix Botanical Lip Balm is $6, Soapwalla Deodorant Cream is $10. All at SpiritBeautyLounge.com
What I found interesting this week
~I loved reading Gaia’s impressions of JAR’s Bolt of Lightning over at The Non Blonde. While this fragrance is almost certainly not all natural (its ingredient list is a well-kept secret) I adore it nevertheless. On me, it is a rich and vibrantly green tuberose that I find altogether addictive and captivating.
~I really appreciate and admire the following bloggers for voicing their opinions regarding Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s recent decision to resign from the Natural Perfumers Guild. Thank you to Eyeliner on a Cat, This Blog Really Stinks, and Scent Less Sensibilities for being brave enough to speak the truth. If you would like more information about Dawn’s decision, you can read about it on her Facebook page.
~I was also very impressed with Fig and Sage‘s post regarding Zuii Organics. Those ladies did exhaustive research into whether or not Zuii Organics deserves their organic certification from the USDA. I can’t imagine how many hours they put into this project, and I thank them for it.
So what do these posts have in common? For me, they are a terrific reminder that while certifications and memberships might serve a purpose, it’s ultimately up to us as customers and members of a community to treat each other with respect, read labels for ourselves and not have our decisions hinge solely upon stamps of approval from guilds or certifying organizations.
When distilled to their essence, these posts encourage me to be true to myself and my beliefs and I thank the above bloggers for their hard work and eloquence.
Image by Patrick de Warren at artnet.com
Desir by Ajne
My sample of Ajne’s Desir has been sorely neglected for nearly two years. It’s been so long that I don’t know if I bought it, got it in a swap, or if it was gifted to me. Nevertheless, it resurfaced during a much needed organizing session of my perfume samples and quickly made its way onto my skin.
I’ve been suffering from jasmine fatigue lately, so immediately after applying it I thought to myself, “oh no, am I going to be smelling this indolic jasmine for the rest of the night?” and began to regret my hasty application. Don’t get me wrong, the opening is a rather enticing jasmine, but not what I had hoped to experience. Luckily, my regret was never fully realized. After a few minutes of jasmine lushness, a cinnamon tinged sandalwood note began to pulsate among the petals, tempering the tropical headiness with sweet spice and grounding woods.
This elegant balance of an opulent and rich floral note alongside a warm, spicy wood note is beautifully achieved as the juxtaposition is apparent enough to be appreciated yet seamless at the same time. The heart of Desir continues with this smooth interplay until another floral nuance emerges, and a familiar one at that.
Interestingly, the drydown has a distinct similarity to Anotnia’s Flowers. As many of you know, Antonia’s Flowers is an ode to freesia, and its peppery lightness is unmistakable. At this late stage of development, Desir possesses a similarly high pitched floral tone which is not so much freesia-esque, but more like magnolia which is in Antonia’s Flowers, as is jasmine. Magnolia can have an edge of camphor while still possessing a fruitiness that is reminiscent of berries, and both of these qualities are present in Desir’s base. Honestly, I have no idea if magnolia is in Desir, and it could very easily be a phantom note that Gaia wrote about earlier today.
Ultimately, the list of notes is irrelevant. What it is relevant, is the beauty of this complex, all natural perfume. Desir took me on an adventure that many hours later I can still smell on my skin as the beautiful hum of a magnolia-laden woody floral.
Desir is available at Ajne.com ranging in price from $55 for 0.125oz to $190 for 1oz. Their lotion and body oil can be scented with Desir and I highly recommend this option if you’d like to experience their fragrances, but want to keep costs down.
Image: “Desire”by Pino. © Copyright Classic Publications
Lisa Eldridge’s Natural Makeup Tutorial
I was making my daily visit to The Non Blonde today and learned about Lisa Eldridge, a well-known makeup artist with a fabulous blog that includes very informative video tutorials. I was immediately intrigued by Ms. Eldridge as she looks like a cross between Parker Posey and Mary Louise Parker, has a soothing voice, and a no-nonsense approach to makeup. When I stumbled across her organic and natural makeup tutorial, I knew I had to share it with all of you.
She features one of my favorite blushes, Dr. Hauschka Rouge Powder Duo and also introduced me to some new products I am now anxious to try, namely Lavera’s Natural Liquid Foundation, Korres Wild Rose Compact Powder and Dr. Hauschka’s Lavender Dreams Balancing Teint Powder. Sadly the Dr. Hauschka powder looks like it’s not available in the US which makes me want it even more!
I hope you find this honest and candid tutorial as helpful as I did.
Var en Provence by Rebel and Mercury
Many of you are already familiar with Nikki Sherritt via her line of all natural candles at her etsy site, Gabriel’s Aunt. She also creates botanical perfumes and recently established a separate shop, Rebel and Mercury, in order to better feature her line of fragrances. The name seems to suit her perfectly since it reflects Nikki’s independent and evolving creative spirit.
When Nikki launched Rebel and Mercury back in June, she sent me a sample of a new fragrance, Var en Provence. When it arrived, I was too busy with travel and work to spend quality time with the fragrance, but luckily the sample of Var en Provence caught my eye last week and I’ve been able to hang out with this perfect summer scent and get to know it a lot better.
To my nose, Var en Provence falls squarely in my favorite genre, the woody floral perfume. Having said that, I’m not certain of the woods in this perfume and I wonder if it’s the orris root and olive leaf that merge into a basalmic and herbal accord. But let’s get to the floral aspect first. Mimosa is the focal point of Var en Provence and it glimmers in the soft light of Southern France. Fortunately, this is a soft-focus mimosa and not at all high pitched which is often the case. The mimosa in Var en Provence is definitely sweet, but it’s a gauzy draping of honeyed blossoms that feels very wearable and appealing.
Going back to the woody floral discussion, and I’d like to clarify that those balsamic nuances are present only in the opening of the fragrance which I find very interesting as wood essences tend to be basenotes. But as I said, the earthy, almost mushroomy quality of orris combined with the herbaceous olive leaf hover around the opening notes and then dissipate as the heart opens to the soft and plentiful mimosa flowers.
The drydown continues the mimosa theme as it becomes even more powdery and floral. The final stage of Var en Provence is like a soliflore that allows for an unexpectedly serene yet intriguing mimosa experience. Clearly, I highly recommend mimosa aficionados give Var en Provence a try, and for those of you who are a little gun-shy regarding this yellow fuzzy blossom, you should give it a shot as well.
Var en Provence is available at Rebel and Mercury in various sizes and price points.
Disclosure: A sample was sent to me for consideration by Nikki Sherritt. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.
Mimosa Flower by InFire at etsy.
What I found interesting this week.
I’m not sure if this will become a regular post on Scent Hive, but here’s what I found interesting this week out in the blogging world.
Fig + Sage reviewed John Masters Organics Sunscreen, one of my favorites.
Scent Less Sensibilities wrote a beautiful review of Mandy Aftel’s new Haute Claire.
The Flaxen Owl featured CARGO’s PlantLove Green Glamour Kit with pics. The look is pretty as is she!
Dain over at ARS Aromatica offered a very thorough review of one of my favorite skincare lines, Kahina Giving Beauty
Nathan Branch is hosting an ongoing “Letters to a Fellow Perfumer,” featuring Mandy Aftel and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz.
Have a gorgeous weekend everyone!
Image by Hadley Hutton (who also designed the above banner for Scent Hive)
Winner of To Bee by Roxana Illuminated Perfume
To Bee. Roxana Illuminated Perfume’s Homage to the Honeybee
I am continually marveled by Roxana Villa. She is a prolific and highly gifted natural perfumer whose work I greatly admire and her dedication to nurturing the native flora and fauna of her home in Southern California is unflagging and commendable. She has created perfumes inspired by local plants such as the native rose of California, lavender from Ojai Valley, and the California Coastal Live Oak. Additionally, a portion of the proceeds from the sale of several of Roxana’s perfumes are donated to organizations like the California Chaparral Institute and the Ojai Lavender Festival.
As if Roxana didn’t have enough on her activist-perfumer’s plate, over the past year she has become an organic beekeeper. Her efforts are part of a movement to help reverse colony collapse disorder and ultimately save the honeybee (and ourselves) from destruction. Her hard work also gives her the opportunity to savor her bees’ honey. Roxana sent along a tiny pot of this glistening elixir which tasted heavenly as it mingled with melted butter atop my morning toast. Along with this culinary treat, her bees have given rise to Roxana’s newest olfactory creation, To Bee, a 100% natural perfume that radiates the essence of honey.
To Bee is available in solid and liquid form, and both are composed of several complex accords, botanical notes, as well as tinctures from beeswax sourced from Roxana’s hive, local hives, and feral rescue hives. The result is a mosaic of scents that swirl together harmoniously which then ultimately distill to a crystalline honey drydown.
Amber and musk accords anchor To Bee with a resinous sweetness and a vegetal musk as tonka, woods, vanilla, ambrette, and hay offer their enticing aromas. It sets a tone of warmth that gives To Bee a glow in which the honey can bask. But it’s Roxana’s intricate leather accord that makes To Bee quite unique and animalic as it’s made up of choya (smoked sea shells), africa stone and oud- along with nearly fifty other essences! This leathery bounty of notes boosts the muskiness of Too Bee and gives its sweet amber accord a sultry sexiness. Clearly, Too Bee is not a one dimensional honey scent. It is sophisticated, alluring, and a pleasure to wear.
In its final hours on the skin, Too Bee dries down to a pure honeyed experience, like the scent of melting beeswax which I find utterly intoxicating. A slightly floral component is more noticeable in this stage as jasmine and mimosa seem to quietly declare themselves. A little musk lingers as well, more so in the solid form, but it’s the honey from hardworking bees that makes the drydown, as well as To Bee in its entirety, so very alluring.
Please leave a comment if you would like to be entered in a drawing for a sample pot of Roxana’s To Bee. US entries only please. Drawing closed, will announce winner soon!
A sampler of To Bee is available at Roxana’s etsy site. Beautiful engraved lockets filled with To Bee are also available as are 5gm solid pots and a 7gm liquid flacon. A spray version is coming, and that’s what I’ll be holing out for!
Images courtesy of ©RoxanaVilla
Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by Roxana Illuminated Perfume. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.
Peace Love and Patchouli Winners
This is a really exciting giveaway! Congrats to Michael who won DSH Perfumes Bodhi Sativa and to Isa who won April Aromatics Bohemian Spice. I think you both will be very happy with your summertime patchouli scents!
image from Woodstock Jamblog
Summer of Love, Patchouli Style.
Monica Miller of the Perfume Pharmer and Skye Botanicals put 13 perfumers to the test. The challenge was to create a natural perfume using a minimum of 25% patchouli in the essential oil base. Now if that idea doesn’t shoot me right back to Saturday Market in Eugene, OR. I don’t know what does.
All thirteen perfumers rose to the challenge and created interesting and compelling patchouli based perfumes. We participating bloggers were asked to choose our top three which was no small task, but I happily obliged of course! Each perfume was labeled only with a number so as to avoid bias towards a name or perfumer. I chose #5, #10, and #11. The full list of perfumes and a giveaway is at the end. It should also be noted that there were no strict guidelines as to the definition of “natural” for this project, so please contact the individual perfumers if you have any concerns regarding their palette.
#5- Bohemian Spice by April Aromatics. This is a patchouli fragrance for even the most ardent patchouli-phobes. It’s soft and soothing and does not exude any of the overbearing qualities one might anticipate from a 25% concentration patchouli perfume. It begins with a gentle vitality provided by welcoming citrus notes of the orange variety. Sandalwood and patchouli are immediately recognizable, with patchouli being the quieter of the two. Sandalwood (along with some cedar I imagine) is at the forefront of Bohemian Spice and it’s the kind I really like. Bohemian Spice is not a dry sandalwood like 10 Corso Como or Diptyque’s Tam Dao, it’s creamy and full-bodied and becomes even more voluminous thanks to patchouli’s herbal and balsamic qualities. The best part though, is the cuddly vanilla-benzoin drydown. What begins as a lush sandalwood/patchouli pairing, ends with sweet smooth woods.
#10- Têtu by JoAnne Bassett. I had to wear Têtu several times before I chose it as one of my top three. Right away I found it fascinating and wanted to understand its complexity. After being drawn to it again and again, I knew it held a special place among the contestants. It’s boldly rich, saturated with heady textures of resins, leather, rose and smoky amber. For me, Têtu has patchouli infused oud written all over it. An oud that exudes a fleshy tang, smoke and mystery. Yet, the intrigue doesn’t end there. While Têtu feels almost larger than life at the outset, it morphs into something quite pillowy and yes, wearable. The patchouli and oud recede peacefully into the background allowing the amber to take on a powdery glow.
#11- Bodhi Sativa by DSH Perfumes. I love the play on words for Dawn’s patchouli brew. Bodhisattva, a being who is able to attain nirvana but puts it off to help the rest of us achieve enlightenment. Sativa, an entirely direct reference to cannabis. Quite apropos since this fragrance event has been dubbed “PLAP,” Peace Love and Patchouli. And man, if you love the kind vintage patchouli, Bodhi Sativa is speaking your language. For me it doesn’t conjure up smoke filled VW buses, but its leathery and slightly animalic aspect combined with a rich and minty aged patchouli certainly alludes to the herbal smoke. I love that Bodhi Sativa is an unabashedly patchouli fragrance. It begins and ends with the tenacious essence, but because it is harmonized with some fruity-floral nuances- I’m guessing osmanthus and rose otto- it’s never one-dimensional and wears nicely as a summer scent. And all you patchouli-lovin’ peaceniks are in luck! Dawn is giving away a generous 10ml bottle of Bodhi Sativa to a Scent Hive reader. Please leave a comment to be entered.
Update: Tanja Bochnig of April Aromatics has offered to giveaway a bottle of Bohemian Spice, so we’ll have two winners! Leave a comment to have a chance at winning either Bodhi Sativa or Bohemian Spice. Drawing closed, winners announced.
1 Dupetit, Indienne
2 Liz Zorn, River Walk
3 Shelley Waddington, Go Ask Alice
4 Jane Cate, Haight and Ashbury
5 April Aromatics, Bohemian Spice
6 Happiness, Perfume by Nature/Ambrosia Jones
7 Providence Perfume Company, Rose Boheme
8 Lyn Ayre, Patchouli Paisley
9 no one, to save confusion with 6
10 JoAnne Bassett, Tetu
11 DSH, Bodhi Sativa
12 Amanda Feeley, Queen of Punk
13 Opus Oils, Wild Child
14 Therapeutate, Rodney Hughes, Royal Water
Thank you so much to Monica Miller for asking me to be a part of this event! Please visit her blog, the Perfume Pharmer for more PLAP info and links to participating bloggers as well as posts by the perfumers themselves!
A Midsummer Night’s Dream, A Perfume Event
Amanda Feeley of Esscentual Alchemy has brought together 16 perfumers and 11 bloggers to celebrate summer fragrances inspired by Shakespeare’s “A Midsummer Night’s Dream,” a tale of entangled, wacky love thanks to mischievous fairies and elves. I like to think of Amanda as one of these fairies, spreading various natural potions across the land just to see how we humans react and engage with these delights.
And what delights they are! I received “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” inspirations from Amanda herself, as well as from Ayala Sender. I’ll begin with Amanda’s creation named “Bottom’s Dream” since it personifies the playful gauziness of a fairy’s wings. Bottom’s Dream refers to Shakespeare’s character, Nick Bottom, who unbeknownst to him, ends up with an ass’s head instead of his own. Titania, queen of the fairies falls in love with him in spite of his donkey face because she has been anointed with a love potion. Amanda too has created a love potion of sorts, because you know what? I am in love with it!
When I first read that a “handmade peach accord” was in the mix, I hoped that meant osmanthus would be a prominent note, and it is. I absolutely adore the fleshy peachiness of osmanthus which is why “Bottom’s Dream” is a success for me. It possesses the peachy sweetness of summer drinks and fresh blossoms at a garden party. Beautiful florals reside in the blend, most notably a fruity rose and a honeyed jasmine that swirl above, below and through the diaphanous osmanthus petals. A very subtle wash of marigold provides an earthy haze and musky pepperiness that keeps “Bottom’s Dream” from floating away too quickly. It stays on the skin for several hours giving this osmanthus lover plenty to dream about.
Ayala’s fragrance for this event is entirely different from Amanda’s. While it bears the insouciant name, “Smiling Country,” it feels far more serious than a daydream. This perfume delves deeper into the soil where seeds germinate after they soak up a nighttime’s rain. Ayala did not send me the notes for her creation, so what I lay before you is pure speculation. I must confess that after I wore it for the first time, I thought a vintage patchouli must be in “Smiling Country” as the drydown emanates its essence. Boronia also made an impression on me, and I had to let Ayala know my guesses. I was right on the boronia, but wrong on the patchouli.
Copyright 2008 Howard David Johnson
So what was that deep, balsamic, almost minty/pine-like essence that I smelled? This combination of dried grass and moist soil? After spending more time with “Smiling Country” I sense a tangy wood such as oud alongside the tannic fruitiness of boronia. Juniper is another possibility as it would be responsible for heightening the woodiness as well as adding an evergreen mintiness. Chamomile, hay and vetiver are my grass note hunches and I think something like mimosa might also be present as a higher pitched floral note dances above the richer woods.
I’m still searching my past olfactory memories for some other note that could possibly explain the patchouli likeness that I still experience when wearing “Smiling Country.” I have a notion that spikenard is lingering in Ayala’s perfume since it is noted to smell musky, animalic, earthy and sweet. (Maybe she’ll let me know if my out-on-a-limb guess is correct). Regardless, “Smiling Country” is for a different kind of “Midsummer Night’s Dream.” One that is rooted in the earth, but is also mysterious and beautiful.
Update: Ayala has posted her reveal of Smiling Country’s notes. Visit her Smelly Blog to find out what they are!
Please visit Amanda’s blog over the next 10 days as she posts links to the other participating blogs.
Titania by Henry Fuseli (1741-1825)
A Midsummer Night’s Dream by Howard David Johnson
Roxana Illuminated Perfume’s Stunning Lookbook
Roxana Villa has been hard at work, creating her Lookbook, and it was worth the effort. If you take a gander, you will be rewarded with gorgeous images from her collection and beautiful descriptions of her work. So here it is: Roxana Illuminated Perfume Lookbook, Number 1 (I hope that means there will be more)!
Since the above image is of Roxana’s Rosa, I am posting a portion of a prior Scent Hive review.
Rosa’s rose is comprised of an otto (essential oil) from Turkey and an absolute of rose bourbonica from India. But before you sense the full blossoming of those gorgeous flowers; woods, oud, vetiver and subtle leather introduce the fragrance. The woods and oud begin slightly sharp but rich, and then mellow into vetiver’s deep earthy vibration. When the rose finally blooms at the drydown, Rosa’s bouquet is full but close to the skin. It’s complex and provides a beautiful evolution on your skin.
Kjaer Weis. Luxurious, all natural makeup.
Danish-born New York makeup artist, Kirsten Kjaer Weis, has created a line of makeup that very successfully merges the worlds of design and green beauty. These sleek and weighty compacts won a 2011 Wallpaper design award for best new grooming product while also achieving certified organic status from the CCPB, Italy’s organic certification agency. The compacts are refillable, and the packaging of both the compacts and the refills are recyclable. When you purchase your first Kjaer Weis product, it’s filled with the color of your choice and it will indeed feel like a substantial investment. This is a high-end luxury item to be sure.
Take a deep breath if you clicked on the above link, let the sticker shock wear off, and read on because Kjaer Weis products perform beautifully. At least the ones I tested certainly did. I started with Cloud Nine which would have a happy home in any champagne eyeshadow collection. This one is unique as it’s cream in color but leans pink with a subtle golden iridescent sheen. It’s in no way over-the-top and I love wearing it as a wash over the entire eyelid. For those of you who like to highlight the brow bone, I can’t think of a lovelier color. (See Adventures in Makeup for a fabulous example). As for performance, the consistency is silky and creamy, blends effortlessly, and creases very minimally without a primer.
I also tried the Lip Tint in Passionate, and even though I love Cloud Nine, if I were pressed to choose between the two, I’d go with the Lip Tint. Passionate is everything I want from a lip color. It’s rosy and warm, a very “my lips but better” shade that feels really good on my lips. Since it’s a tint, it has a much thinner consistency than a gloss and isn’t quite as thick as a balm. I’d say it feels and wears closest to a sheer lipstick, but it doesn’t give a shiny finish, more of a satiny one. I prefer to apply the tint with a lipbrush which intensifies the pigment more so than using your fingertip. The color lasts for several hours but honestly, I do so more frequently than that since it’s a pleasure to reapply. It’s a beautiful design that holds an excellent product, and it’s all natural to boot. I can’t ask for much more.
See below for my pics of Kjaer Weis Cloud Nine and Passionate. Click here if you would like to read The Non Blonde’s review of Passionate that she posted today as well. She’s also crazy for Kjaer Weis taupe eyeshadow, Wisdom.
Kjaer Weis Eyeshadows and Lip Tints are $44 and $48 for a filled compact, and $20 and $22 for the refills alone. Available online at SpaceNK
Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by Kjaer Weis. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.
Naturopathica Lemongrass Mimosa Body Scrub
The scent of lemongrass is just what you think it would be, lemony and grassy. It’s bright, green and crisp and is the perfect addition to bath and body products if a pick-me-up is what you’re after. But lemongrass is more than just a grassy-lemon scent, it’s also herbaceous and kind of spicy. Because of its use in cooking, lemongrass can easily conjure up culinary references, but in Naturopathica’s Lemongrass Mimosa Body Scrub, we are taken down a different path.
Lemongrass is far and away the dominant scent in this gently invigorating scrub, but the inclusion of mimosa, ylang yang, rose and jasmine lend complex floral notes which heighten its spicy and herbal qualities. While massaging the Lemongrass Mimosa Body Scrub onto my skin, the shower fills with its uplifting and unique fragrance. And while it’s difficult to discern the floral notes as separate essences, they swirl together beautifully. As I sit here with some of the scrub on the top of my hand, there is a note that suddenly stands out, one that I have not noticed previously, and that’s vetiver. Vetiver, like lemongrass, is herbaceous and green, but with a sweet woody character rather than a citrus one. Like in perfume, vetiver melds seamlessly into floral blends and helps to bring out the earthy side of lemongrass.
As far as it’s performance as a scrub, it gets my highest recommendation. Although it is important to note that this is not a foaming scrub, it’s a thick walnut shell powder and shea butter based paste that’s creamy and does an excellent job of exfoliating. Naturopathica has succeeded in creating a scrub that does what it’s supposed to do, but without the unwanted side effect of feeling too rough. The walnut shells are very finely ground and the shea butter gives it a soothing creaminess that I really like.
Naturopathica Lemongrass Mimosa Body Scrub is $28 for 5oz. Available at Naturopathica.com
Visit Now Smell This for a past review of Lemongrass Mimosa by Jessica.
Watercolor image of Seaside Mimosa by The Joy of Color at etsy.
INGREDIENTS: Aqua/Water/Eau, Juglans Regia (Walnut) Shell Powder, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Cetyl Palmitate, Lactobacillus/Arundinaria Gigantea (Bamboo) Grass Ferment Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cymbopogon Flexuosus (Lemongrass) Oil, Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Oil, Jasminum Grandiflorum (Jasmine) Flower Oil, Acacia Decurrens (Mimosa) Oil, Citrus Hystrix (Combava) Peel Oil, Cananga Odorata (Ylang Ylang) Flower Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Geranium) Flower Oil, Vetiveria Zizanioides (Vetivert) Root Oil, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum (Milkthistle) Leaf Extract, Filipendula Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol
Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by Naturopathica. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.
For Strange Women Natural Perfumery
I don’t know Jill McKeever, but I feel like I do. I have spent hours perusing her etsy shop and poring over her blogposts which is the way we get to know each other these days I suppose. Her natural perfumery is called For Strange Women, which speaks to Jill’s overall aesthetic. It’s slightly oddball, but certainly feels warm and inviting as it’s for us, quirks and all.
I became acquainted with Jill via Twitter when she followed me. I then popped on over to her etsy shop to see what she was all about. I was immediately taken by the descriptions and gorgeous photographs of her perfumes. The images have a vintage patina but are hyper-real as if you can feel the weight of the glass and liquid just by looking at them. Shortly after this introduction, I serendipitously found her perfumes at Flutter which is a beautifully curated Portland boutique loaded with everything you don’t need, but desperately want. After seeing and smelling Jill’s creations first hand, they went on my desperately want list.
My friend Bishop Lennon and I were together at Flutter that day, and we both swooned over Moss & Ivy. Seriously, the whole store probably heard our oohs and ahhs. I’ve since had the opportunity to wear Moss & Ivy several times and it’s had the same effect on me every time. When it melds into the skin it evokes an atmosphere which is deeply green and mysterious, like a forest teeming with emerald ferns, gigantic pines and wet mossy soil. As Moss & Ivy develops, its herbal greenness subsides and a softer resinous base completes the woodland journey.
Decadence and Debauchery is also a richly resinous fragrance that exudes intrigue. But this is not for woodland nymphs. It’s a glamorous scent “suitable for burlesque beauties, Victorian darlings, and vaudeville sensations alike,” as Jill herself proclaims. Decadence and Debauchery is laden with tobacco, vanilla bourbon and violets which might sound pretty and sweet, but don’t be misled. This all natural perfume possesses a strong, full-bodied tobacco that is more dry and smoky than sweet. Vanilla and violet simply add more curves to this voluptuous fragrance which boldly makes its presence known. Decadence and Debauchery ultimately settles down a bit, and gets smoother and sweeter as immortelle coats itself over tempered woods and dry tobacco. I’ve never been one to enjoy the maple aspect of immortelle, but in this composition it’s so well harmonized with balsams that it’s more bittersweet than sugary, a perfect ending for this gorgeous perfume.
Moss & Ivy and Decadence and Debauchery are $28 for a 7.3ml (.25 oz) vial of 100% natural perfume oil.
Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by For Strange Women. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.
