Author Archives: scenthive

Alima Friends and Fans Sale!

Posted on by
Reply

I love so many things from Alima, but here’s what would be first on my list if I didn’t have them already.
-Satin Matte Blush in Tulip and Mimosa
-Satin Finishing Powder in Hanae
-#35 Eye Detail Brush
-Nourishing Lip Balm in Natural

Here are some links to Scent Hive reviews on Alima:
Organic Lip Balm
Natural Peach Blushes (Mimosa)
General review of Alima’s foundation, finishing powder, blush, eyeshadow, etc!

And the fine print regarding the promotion.
*Offer does not apply to previous purchases. Discount is not applied to shipping and handling costs. Offer valid from Friday, November 11, 2011 through Thursday, November 17, 2011 10:00pm PST. Discount is applied at checkout with code BFF20. Offer not valid on phone orders. Cannot be combined with any other promotion or redeemed for cash. Limit one promotional code per order. Details of offer are subject to change.

Share

Butter London Come to Bed Red

Posted on by
12

Isn’t this such a pretty red? It’s not too warm or too cool, just a classic, gorgeous red. Unfortunately, the photo below is not an entirely accurate depiction of the color as the flash of the camera makes it look orangey, which is not the case. The shot of the bottle above is much more true to life. But, I wanted to include my toes in this post because it attests to the amazing longevity of Butter London’s polishes. I’m on day 13 of this pedicure, and it’s still going strong. I’m impressed.

Photos are mine.

Share

What I’ve been doing this week.

Posted on by
11

Unfortunately I still have this blasted cold- now sinus infection- so my week is reflective of that state. Here it is:

Drinking lots of tea. My favorite right now is Smith’s White Petal. All I need to say is, heavenly osmanthus.

Making soup in the slow cooker. Here’s a really good recipe for Italian Sausage Soup.

I’ve managed to create a new addiction. Have you found Pinterest? It’s amazing. I’ve spent hours and hours there this week. Follow me if you’d like.

Did you know Poppytalk Handmade also makes for a splendid time suck? I’ve spent a few hours over there too. I’m trying to figure out which Nest Pretty Things I need the most.

My new BFF is my DVR. I’m all caught up on Pan Am which has turned out to be a terrific Mad Men substitute. Love the costumes, good acting and the story lines aren’t half bad. I just can’t get over not being thrilled with the casting of Christina Ricci.

Of course, I’ve also spent time getting caught up on my favorite blogs and here are a few highlights:

Another Perfume Blog’s “get to know me” post. I loved it. I want to do one too.

I am one of many NST Angela fans, and I ate up every word of her Bottega Veneta review. It got me stomping my feet in the middle of Nordstrom’s to hasten its arrival. That’s an exaggeration. I didn’t do that. But I imagined it, and I will do so once I feel better.

I really enjoyed Olfactorama’s review of Tania Sanchez and Luca Turin’s new book “The Little Book of Perfumes”. I couldn’t have said it better myself, so I won’t even try. I’ll link to it instead.

And finally, Nathan Branch published another installment of the series, “Letters to a Fellow Perfumer: Mandy Aftel & Dawn Spencer Hurwitz”. It’s a fascinating glimpse into the intelligent, creative, and intriguing process of these two perfumers.

Have a lovely and fragrant weekend!

Share

The Clarimonde Project, Part III

Posted on by
5

As this might be my last installment of The Clarimonde Project, I would like to thank Lucy of IndiePerfumes for inviting me to partake in this extraordinarily inspired adventure. I’m hoping many of you have listened to Clarimonde via Librivox and perused the other participant’s blogs for reviews and beautiful prose inspired by this haunting romance.

There’s one aspect of this story that I have not touched upon yet, and that is the ending when Clarimonde is revealed to be a vampire. Romuald, the priest who fell madly in love with Clarimonde, did not disentangle himself from his lover once he discovered that he had been drugged nightly by her so she could drink his life giving blood. Rather, he seemed to relish that he kept her alive, so much so that his words could be mistaken for the prayer given before taking Holy Communion, “Drink, and may my love infiltrate itself throughout thy body together with my blood.”

When one celebrates Holy Communion, the host (bread) and the wine are symbolic of Christ’s body and blood. In Roman Catholicism specifically, the host and the bread are believed to become the body and blood of Jesus, which is echoed in the aforementioned words of Romuald regarding Clarimonde. Romuald not only partook in this ritual as a priest, but administered it to his parishioners as well. And at night, he gave of his own blood to save the life of Clarimonde. At one point in the story, Romuald even describes Clarimonde’s “beautiful hands” as “purer and more diaphanous than the host,” a direct reference to the Holy Communion.

This story is rife with death, rebirth, blood, flowers, decay, youth and passion. What an abundance of inspiration for a perfumer, right? Indeed it has been. I have three *perfumes at my table right now. One by Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums, another by Dawn Spencer Hurwtiz of DSH Perfumes, and finally one by Monica Miller of Skye Botanicals. I have experienced them all separately, but as I have them together now, I am convinced there must have been a Clarimonde collective consciousness wafting through their creative spaces while they concocted their brews as they are rather similar.

They are all intensely floral perfumes that exude the weighty feel of aubergine velvet, burgundy brocades and red damask. Dawn’s perfume, Paradise Lost, is quite ambery and well-aged like a rich port. Monica’s creation, Sangre, is just as deep and dark as Paradise Lost, but it’s a little sweeter like over-ripe blackberries dripping in one’s hand. All three hint at a haylike note, but it’s Ayala’s Clarimonde Dream Pillow that emanates the most earthiness. It’s not a freshly tilled soil though, rather a soil on the edge of decay that is infused with rose, violet and carnation.

Each of these perfumes teeter on the edge between lushness and decomposition, which is right where Romuald existed. And all of The Clarimonde Project creations, including Mandy Aftel’s Oud Luban and Immortal Mine, by Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl are touched by the beauty and depth of this utterly captivating story. I am honored to have been a part of this event that so exquisitely married perfume and literature.

Visit IndiePerfumes, ScentLessSensibilities, PerfumePharmer, LostPastRemembered for more Clarimonde prose and watch for posts at JadeDressler, Perfume Smellin’ Things as well.

The Clarimonde Project Part I
The Clarimonde Project Part II

*Paradise Lost (DSH Perfumes) and Sangre (Skye Botanicals) are mixed-media perfumes as they contain small amounts of synthetics. Ayala’s Dream Pillow perfume is 100% natural.

Image of The Vampire by Sir Philip Burne-Jones at artmagick

Image of Victorian Vampire by FairyLover17 at etsy

Share

Top Autumn Sensory Discoveries

Posted on by
10

I’m nursing a minor, albeit very annoying, cold at the moment. It’s the typical deal, stuffy nose, cough, fatigue- and all I can think about is warmth, comfort and pampering. Fortuitously, a lovely parcel arrived from Ayala Moriel Parfums last week which included a sample of her newest fragrance Zangvil, and its accompanying perfumed tea. Perfect for autumn, perfect for my achey bones.

Of course I was thrilled to give her latest perfume creation a try, but it was the tea I really wanted to dive into. OK, so I didn’t literally dive into the tea, but I definitely steeped in it. I held the cup close to my nose and inhaled its steam, allowing the aromatic vapors to heal my tender and congested self. Ayala uses very fine Jasmine Silver Needle tea leaves for Zangvil, which is harvested in the spring and then laced with night blooming jasmine during the summer. I envision the jasmine blooms opening and infusing the white tea leaves with their scent, just as Ayala’s Zangvil tea infused me with its restorative perfume. And not only with the perfume of jasmine, but also of organic crystalized ginger, ambrette seeds and vanilla bean. It’s a gorgeous tea and I think I need to make another cup as I continue to write.

Ahhh, now that I have the aroma of Zangvil swirling about me, I am tempted by my other autumnal (and common cold) indulgence- the bath! I guess this is when the real steeping begins right? It’s a simple pleasure really, immersing oneself in hot water. But when you add something deliciously scented into the tub, it becomes a truly pampering experience. My newest bath discovery is Persephenie’s Nanu Lei Bath, a fizzy mineral bath powder with the potent hydrating powers of coconut oil and cocoa butter and the captivating scent of tiare. Nanu Lei Bath has just the right amounts of coconut, tiare and a sparkling citrus to warm your senses with thoughts of a dreamy tropical destination without hitting you over the head with too much of any of them. I adore it.

During the fall and winter months, I like to ramp up the pampering, and apply a facial mask before dipping into the tub. Evan Healy’s French Rose Clay Mask has occupied my number one spot for just over a year now, but I decided to give a new one a try, Naturopathica’s Pumpkin Purifying Enzyme Peel. My first test-drive timing wasn’t great as it was on a hot, dog day of summer, and I was not feeling the scent of pumpkin. Fast forward to the cold chill in the air of late October, and it’s ideal. According to the Naturopathica website, pumpkin is an exfoliator that is loaded with antioxidants given its high beta carotine content. Cinnamon is also in the mask which gives it a spicy aroma and also acts as an antiseptic. I’ll take their word for it, because after I rinsed it away, my skin felt smoother and softer and I had a curious craving for pumpkin pie.

My last autumn discovery is actually a rediscovery of a forgotten perfume love, YSL’s Paris Roses des Bois. This Paris flanker was released in 2004 and it’s been far too long since I paid it any mind. It’s much more wearable on me than the original Paris which I find too cloying. If you’re familiar with Roses des Bois, you know it to be full of pink roses and blackberries, with an added smidge of sandalwood and musk. Not your typical fall-ish fragrance I know, but it’s really working for me in this colder weather. The musk has taken on a new coziness this autumn as the rose feels a little wilder and the blackberry like a special preserve you ration out during the chilly months. Happily, I have a huge bottle that need not be used sparingly. This jammy rose can now take its rightful place at the front of my perfume collection.

What are your latest autumnal discoveries? Feel free to share in this blogging event!

 

And please visit the following blogs for more autumnal pleasures, and many thanks to Elena of Perfume Shrine for getting this together!

Katie Pukrick Smells

Perfume Shrine

Smelly Blog

The Non Blonde

 

 

Top most Image from PennGastronomyClub

Share

The Clarimonde Project, Part II

Posted on by
12

If you read my last post, you know there’s an exciting blog project swirling in the ether, inspired by the darkly romantic short story, Clarimonde. Romuald, who despite his passion for the priesthood, entered into an illicit love affair with the hypnotic Clarimonde, only to regret it for years to come. At the end of his tale, Romauld implores the reader,  ”Never gaze upon a woman, and walk abroad only with eyes ever fixed upon the ground; for however chaste and watchful one may be, the error of a single moment is enough to make one lose eternity. Lose eternity.”

My heart ached for poor Romauld as I read of his love literally vanishing into dust before his eyes. His subsequent deep anguish regarding that love made me feel even more despondent. Thankfully, I was soothed by the post at ScentLessSensibilities, as Sheila picked up the story where the author Théophile Gautier left off. Her continuation of Clarimonde centers around Romauld’s housekeeper at the presbytery and a mysterious perfume she finds during a posthumous sorting of his chamber. The perfume that Sheila was inspired by, Immortal Mine, was created by Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl for The Clarimonde Project. It is rich and floral, inky and dark, but I’ll stop there. Go read ScentLessSensibilities‘ review as it is far more inspired than anything I could attempt.

My sadness for Romauld has also been assuaged by a gloriously comforting oud and frankincense based perfume by Mandy Aftel. Mandy’s Clarimonde-inspired Oud Luban smells of wooden pews and altars suffused with incense that has burned for centuries and centuries. Oud Luban is a solid perfume that holds eight different types of oud in its midst. Surprisingly, it is a subtle and supple oud that caresses with suede, etherial smoke and a smoothly aged patchouli. It is both sensual and reverential, and I hope Romauld found comfort in such an aroma in the wake of Clarimonde’s departure from his life.

The Clarimonde Project Part I
The Clarimonde Project Part III

Oud Luban is available at Aftelier Perfumes.

Samples of Immortal Mine will be available for purchase by contacting Maria and Alexis at info@cherrybombkillerperfume.com

Image from Augustiniancanons.org

Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by the above perfumers. Opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.Share

The Clarimonde Project, Part I

Posted on by
6

Is she from heaven or hell? Is she an angel or a demon? Perhaps both, considered Romuald, a priest who just moments before his ordination became fascinated with a goddless-like woman sitting in the congregation. She was radiant and wildly beautiful with hair like a river of gold and sea green eyes. Yet, even though he was utterly riveted by her, Romuald proceeded with his vows to become a priest of the lord, during Easter week no less.

For a full year, Romuald was haunted by his desire for Clarimonde, his worldly obsession. While he fulfilled his pious duties of prayer, fasting and tending to the sick and dying, he ruminated on the memory of her with a bereft heart.  But that would change one night when a horseman summoned Romuald to Clarimonde’s palace. She was on her death bed and he was needed for “matters related to holy calling.” Once there, he found Clarimonde lifeless in her chamber but as lovely as he had remembered. Overcome by grief he shed tears upon her cheeks and kissed her- which brought her back to life.

This miraculous occurance sent Romuald into a coma-like state for three days. He awoke to stern warnings from his abbot, Serapion, to do away with all thoughts of the evil temptress, Clarimonde.  Romuald did not heed Serapion’s advice. She came to him that night, a vision wrapped in dazzling white linen and spoke the words, “love is stronger than death.” He declared his love for her, and confessed it to be stronger than his love of God. And so began his nightly affair with Clarimonde.

There were now two men within Romuald, “a priest who dreamed nightly he was a gentleman” and “a gentleman that dreamed he was a priest.” As the gentleman, he was Clarimonde’s devoted and faithful lover. He lived in her Venetian Palace decorated with Titians and sumptuous fabrics of velvet and damask. His life there teemed with poetry, music, and worldly pleasures.

Whether it was reality or fantasy, Romuald led a double life. The tension between piety and debauchery is palpable in this captivating tale and speaks to the duality within all humans. But what I found even more salient within Romuald’s narrative, was how similar his feelings were for the church and then for Clarimonde. Romuald was nearly ecstatic on the day of his ordination as he waited with impatience and joy for the moment to finally arrive. “Never did a betrothed lover count the slow hours with more feverish ardor,” Romuald explained. “I slept only to dream I was saying mass.”

When he first gazed upon Clarimonde, he fell instantly in love with her, with a religiosity to rival the most devout priest. “She breathed her will into my life… I no longer lived in myself but I in her and for her.” He could have been speaking about God in such a manner, and actually was, just moments prior.

So what does this story have to do with perfume, you might wonder. Currently, it has everything to do with perfume! Lucy Raubertas of Indie Perfumes has ridden passionately through the blogosphere, snatching up perfumers and bloggers to join her in a chamber of Clarimonde inspired creations.

Perfumers Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes, Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes, Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Perfumes, Monica Miller of Skye Botanicals, and Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl of Cherry Bomb Killer Perfume have crafted Clarimonde perfumes that I will review in subsequent posts.

I listened to Clarimonde, a short story written by Théophile Gautier in 1836, via Librivox, and was entranced at word one. It is read by Joy Chan whose voice lends itself perfectly to this devilishly romantic thriller. I won’t reveal the ending, even though many of you are already privy to its conclusion. Fair warming, if you head over to the blogs of my fellow participants, Lucy Raubertas, Sheila Eggenberger, and Monica Miller, you will discover the dark outcome, but it’s worth it. Keep an eye on the blogs of Jade Dressler and Beth Schreibman as they will be contributing as well. And if you’re one who doesn’t mind a spolier, also stop by LostPastRemembered for a perfumed wine recipe to accompany this beguiling yarn.

The Clarimonde Project Part II
The Clarimonde Project Part III

Images: Autumn by John Atkinson Grimshaw and Choosing by George Frederic WattsShare

Virgo by Strange Invisible Perfumes

Posted on by
9

Full disclosure here. My younger son is a Virgo, so I approached Strange Invisible Perfume’s latest fragrance which was inspired by said astrological sign, with a bias for wanting to love it. Knowing that neroli, sandalwood, and mandarin are in the Virgo blend also tipped my inclination I’ll admit, but bias or no bias, this is a gorgeous perfume.

I find neroli to be an utterly enchanting essence that moves beautifully through the seasons. It’s floral, kind of spicy and woody, and in the colder months it takes on a cozy aspect. In Virgo, neroli is all of the above and then some. Its woodsiness is enhanced by the well known sandalwood, and at least to me, the lesser known Palo Santo. Although now, I am this close to ordering  Palo Santo essential oil after learning more about it.

Palo Santo, or sacred wood, is native to South America and is protected by strict government protection. The oil can only be harvested from fallen twigs and branches that have matured on the jungle floor for two years, allowing enough time for the resin to move into the hardwood. The Incas used this precious wood for purification and cleansing and since it is closely related to frankincense, I can imagine it has a similarly intoxicating incense aroma when burned.

Virgo, the sign and the fragrance, are about introspection, precision and comfort. Sandalwood and Palo Santo usher forth the introspection and comfort, while the neroli and mandarin embody those qualities as well but with a crisp and radiant expressiveness.

Neroli infuses this fragrance with a floral gesture and a hint of sparkle- aided by a gentle dose of jasmine sambac- throughout Virgo’s duration. But it’s in the drydown that Virgo’s soothing quality becomes increasingly apparent. Ultimately, it evolves into a cushion of benzoin and vanilla balsams that are as warm as an embrace from my Virgo son.

 

Virgo is available as eaux de parfum in 1.7 fl. oz. custom engraved bottles hand-painted with sterling silver for $275. It is exclusively sold at the SIP Boutique, but mail orders are welcome. Please call 310.314.1505 for inquiries.

Disclosure: A sample was sent to me for consideration by SIP. Opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Image: A Virgin by Abbott Thayer at Hektoen International

Share

Haute Claire by Aftelier Perfumes

Posted on by
41

Haute Claire is a hyper-real perfume. A turn-up-the-volume-to-11, bordering on psychedelic perfume. Its galbanum is the most vibrant kelly green you’ve ever smelled and the ylang ylang buzzes at a fever pitch. It would be safe to assume that these two powerhouse essences might engage in a battle of wills, but they don’t. They join forces and hum along at a high frequency, one that is spirited and very intriguing.

As expected, galbanum is sharp and intense, but Haute Claire’s creator, Mandy Aftel, has ramped up its musty side which gives some density but in no way mutes the excitement of the ylang ylang merger. Mandy has used ylang ylang co2 in Haute Claire, which according to her allows it to be a top note which explains the nearly electrifying burst of this blossom right out of the bottle.

The concentrated galbanum/ylang duo gives way, but not fully, to the emergence of yet another commanding aroma, honeysuckle. Now I like galbanum, and I’ve learned to appreciate ylang ylang’s place in perfume, but I truly adore the scent of honeysuckle. Mandy has sourced a very rare, Italian made honeysuckle absolute which breathes even more magical realism into Haute Claire.

Imagine the blossoms the moment before they fall upon freshly cut grass. The weight of nectar, dew, and the beginnings of decay aid gravity in their descent. Now imagine that you can feel the pulsating of the blossoms and you wonder if you’re hallucinating. It’s like that.

Haute Claire is as fecund and heady as a stargazer lily, but doesn’t consume the air like that flower is wont to do. Haute Claire wears amazingly close to the skin and even though it might cause its wearer to feel mild intoxication, one would have to step in close to share in the experience.

The drydown doesn’t seem to occur until many hours after application when a downy, almost powdery scent comes to life. It smells a bit like burnt sugar and rose. Mandy has used another intriguing ingredient, *ethyl phenyl acetate, which I have never smelled on its own, but I imagine it, as well as vetiver, contribute to the final softer and gentler Haute Claire.

Mandy Aftel has generously offered a 5ml purse spray to a lucky Scent Hive reader. Just leave a comment and you’ll be entered. Follow Mandy on Twitter and you get an extra entry. Follow Scent Hive and that’s another one. Please let me know about your follows in your comment. Drawing Closed. 

*If you are curious about ethyl phenyl acetate, Mandy’s is an isolate from fruit, wine or whiskey. I do believe it can also be derived from petroleum, but not in this case. There is much discussion about the use of natural isolates in botanical perfumes, and at this moment, I feel comfortable with it. I might change my mind, but I encourage you to do what feels right for you. Below is a guide from the Ayala Moriel Foundation of Natural Perfume Course which she posted in her  What is Natural? post on SmellyBlog. It is really helpful in sorting out the ingredients.

Disclosure: A sample was sent to me for consideration by Aftelier Perfumes. Opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Image: Le Chevrefeuille by Marc Loret on etsy

Share

Dior (yes Dior) New World Purple Nail Polish

Posted on by
18

It may come as surprise to see a Dior nailpolish review here on Scent Hive, but is there really a “natural” nailpolish? I don’t think so. There are a few on the market that might be considered cleaner as they are waterbased. But their staying power is greatly lacking. I love Butter London and Priti, two well known brands for being “Big 3 Free“, but so are most brands these days, and Dior is one of them.

I bought this after seeing Karla Sugar‘s post as the chocolatey purple color looked so gorgeous on her nails. I totally agree with her “kalamata olive” comparison and find that it reflects both bronze and steel in the light.

If my beauty blogging photos were up to Karla’s par, the above shot would be minus the smudge on the cap. Oh well, you get the idea.

All pics take by me. New World Purple was formerly known as Aztec Chocolate.

Share

More Ilia lippie pics

Posted on by
4

I visited Alder & Co. on Tuesday after having lunch next door at Gruner with my dear friend Susan who was happy to pop in with me to check out the Ilia lipstick line that I reviewed last week. I am smitten with the wearable pinkness of Blossom Lady, but was eager to test Bang Bang, their red offering. Once I applied its sheer ruby loveliness on my lips, I knew it would be going home with me.

When you look at my mediocre photos below- I tried my iPhone best- you’ll see that Bang Bang looks kind of brick reddish, but it’s not. It really is a true jewel toned red whose sheerness gives a flattering shimmer that’s day or night appropriate.

Susan picked up Shell Shock which is similar to Blossom Lady but with more warmth from its peach tone which is perfect for her fair skin and strawberry blonde hair. Like me, she also fell for Lady Blossom which I think is her favorite as well.

                                       Shell Shock above, Bang Bang below.

Share

What I found interesting this week (+ weekend)

Posted on by
2

I’m happy to have found some new blogs out there, or at least new to me. I love their witty and inspired writing.

Earlier this month, Scents of Me reviewed a perfume that will forever be in my precious category, Après L’ondée.

Another Perfume Blog shows serious editing chops by wielding some mighty red “ink” on Raymond Matt’s op-ed piece from The Perfume Magazine. I will be contributing to TPM from time to time, but was devilishly pleased to read this spot-on critique.

Reading fashion blogs feels like even more of a guilty pleasure than perfume blogs. Man Repeller is my newest bacon. I want these sparkly Brian Atwood pumps, but who am I kidding? Where would I wear them?

And now for my tried and true, go to blogs.

Somehow I missed Ayala’s exhaustive discussion on What is Natural? when she published her post in August. Visit her Smelly Blog for an education.

I was all set to blog about Alima’s newest eyeshadow collection, but Christy Coleman did a great job, so why reinvent the wheel?

Bois de Jasmin has me champing at the bit to try Prada Candy. How long will this be a Neiman’s exclusive?

I thoroughly enjoyed Victoria’s take on DSH Perfumes Pandora. We had a very similar experience with this modern chypre, but I loved her spin. Check it out at EauMG.net

Hope you all had a fragrant weekend!

Image: Juane at SilverRidgeStudio at etsy.

Share

Ilia Beauty. My latest lipstick love.

Posted on by
14

If you read my “about” page, you’ll discover that I am not a total purist when it comes to being green. My preference is to use only all natural products, especially perfumes and body products, but you’ll find a few mainstream bottles and tubes scattered about my house nevertheless. Lipsticks in particular are a weakness because even though I have found a few naturals that I really like, they haven’t yet moved into the love category. Like how I love my Chanel Rouge Coco Shines- I’ve got more than a couple of those- or my Hourglass Femme Rouge in Fresco.

When I first read about Ilia Beauty over at Grace’s blog, LondonMakeupGirl, I had a feeling their natural lipsticks would be impressive. Ilia’s lipsticks are packed with sesame oil, jojoba oil, beeswax and pomegranate seed oil and I was eager to find out if they feel as good on the lips as they should given those nourishing ingredients. Now that I have worn these lipsticks for myself over several weeks, I can tell you they feel great and look amazing.

Sheer, balmy lipsticks with a subtle shine are my favorites, and Ilia’s fall right into that category. They are not a gloss/lipstick hybrid, but rather a lipstick that feels like a balm with a lovely slip that’s not waxy or sticky. These lipsticks not only feel nourishing, they are nourishing.

The colors I tried were Blossom Lady and Arabian Nights, both very wearable and flattering. Blossom Lady is the lighter pink color, which against my olive skin tone reads as a bubblegum pink. It’s almost nude in tone but not quite since it is sheer, allowing for your natural lip color to add depth. I usually go for pinks that are warmer and rosier, but Blossom Lady is just so pretty. It brightens up my face on those mornings when I haven’t had enough sleep.Arabian Nights is also very sheer, more so than you might think from just looking at it in the tube. But take a peek below and you’ll see that when swatched, it’s not densely pigmented. It’s buildable if you want a richer color, but if you prefer a sheer berry lip you’ll get that with just a couple swipes.
As far as the ingredients, they are over 99% all natural and 85% organic. While perusing online reviews, I found this comment from the founder of Ilia at No More Dirty Looks regarding the use of synthetic color

The 3 synthetic colours listed are minimally used with percentages as low as 0.1% of the total formula. The majority of the shades are a combination of these with “natural dyes”, or iron oxides. Ironically, natural dyes or iron oxides dyes that come from the earth as minerals are full of metals…which our bodies are really good at absorbing and holding onto forever. It was a big decision to use a combination of the two in order to achieve more contemporary shades and provide options. There are many organic cosmetics brands that choose not to disclose the use of mild synthetic colours, yet most will have them if there is a brighter colour involved. Sharing this information was important to me, as to be completely transparent with nothing to hide. As an extra note, there is no Carmine in any of ILIA’s shades, which was a morale decision. The one colour that is completely natural with natural dye is the nude “Nobody’s Baby”. Hope this of help to you, and could write forever about what I have learned in regards to sourcing the ingredients for this one product, yet I do know where each ingredients comes from, right down to its source. If you have any other questions please let me know. Cheers! Sasha // Founder ILIA Beauty

I appreciate the transparency that Sasha provides just as much as I adore her lipsticks. I want to add that they last for hours and the recycled aluminum tubes are surprisingly elegant and close with that high end snap we makeup junkies love.
Who’s that crazy kid?

Ilia lipsticks are $24.95 at IliaBeauty.com

Disclosure: Samples were sent to me for consideration by Ilia Beauty. Opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Share

DSH Perfumes Pandora

Posted on by

First things first here. Yesterday was Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s birthday, so I’d love to extend her a happy belated one and certainly hope she had a lovely day. Today, many of us bloggers are joining forces to review Dawn’s newest creation, Pandora, which to me feels like a precious gift. I’m always very honored to test Dawn’s fragrances, but upon applying Pandora, I knew I was going to experience an extraordinary olfactory journey.

From its inception, DSH Perfume’s Pandora was to be an exploration of all natural and botanical ingredients that have only recently become available to perfumers. Emerging co2 extracts and newly attainable raw materials have expanded the natural perfumer’s palette and Dawn was part of a project that intended to focus solely on those ingredients. Dawn ultimately fell away from the project, and found herself delving deeper into Pandora’s potential and added a small dose of synthetics- aldehydes and ozone- as well as “old school” essences like oakmoss and ambergris. As a result, Pandora evolved into a perfume that tips its hat to the great classic perfumes while exploring contemporary botanical extracts.

The classic perfume that Pandora immediately reminded me of was Jolie Madame as it has a classic aura and possesses a similar swirl of verdant violet. Both Pandora and Jolie Madame have mysteriously green topnotes, Pandora’s being particularly minty while Jolie Madame’s are curvier and noticeably sweeter. Jolie Madame is more of a violet pastille in its opening, but nevertheless, they both exude a mossy violet tone and an animalic undercurrent.

Although these vintage nuances are present, Pandora stands as its own contemporary beauty. Dawn’s use of patchouli and vetiver co2 explores new facets of these well known essences. As a co2, vetiver is even greener and reaches the entire composition from top to bottom, unlike the essential oil which is mainly a basenote. Patchouli co2 is less spicy but even richer and bolder than its essential oil counterpart which adds a new dimension to this familiar scent.

Some of the newly attainable raw materials in Pandora include Juhi jasmine from Northern India, which according to Dawn is even more indolic than the jasmines sambac and grandiflorum. Muhuhu (also know as African sandalwood) is another newbie on the scene and Dawn tells me she is loving its deep, smoky-resinous quality. These four essences meld so well together- merging the floral with the earthy- which is very apparent in the heart. The oakmoss in Pandora’s ”mousse de saxe” accord provides even more green depth to the middle notes, but also a mineral quality which feels very DSH Perfumes to me.

All that Pandora has to offer is stunning. It’s equal parts inky violet, woody floral and mossy darkness. Save for the drydown, which becomes rather silky and buttery, like a favorite scarf imbued with hints of the aforementioned notes but is very much its own stage of the fragrance. Wearing Pandora is an aromatic odyssey that’s complicated and lovely, light and dark, past and present, but most of all, exquisite.

Leave a comment and you will be entered in the drawing to win a 3ml purse spray of Pandora. Tell us about your most beloved vintage perfume and/or your favorite DSH perfume. Drawing now closed. 

Pandora is made up of 97.5% botanicals and 2.5% synthetic and is available at DSH Perfumes in several different sizes and price points.

Please visit the following blogs for their thoughts on Pandora: DSH Notebook, EauMG, eyeliner on a cat, This Blog Really Stinks, Perfume Pharmer, Esscentual Alchemy, Indie Perfumes, and Oh True Apothecary.
Image of Pandora by Henrietta Rae at artmagick.com

Disclosure: A sample was sent to me for consideration by DSH Perfumes. The opinions in this review are my own. I was not financially compensated for this review or any other.

Share

L’eau de Emblem Rouge by EnVoyage Perfumes

Posted on by
30

Dabney Rose, creator of artisanal flower waters, is the woman behind one of my favorite face treats, which is loving called Pretty Face Spray. Dabney distills organic and wildcrafted flowers- many of which are grown in her own garden- into beautiful hydrosols which retain the plants’ nutrients and subtle scent. Pretty Face is one of my favorites since it contains the hydrosols of camelia, rose, green tea, evening primrose and tuberose.

It’s only been in the past few years that I have become a regular user of hydrosols which are different than toners. While some toners do have hydrosols in their formulas, they are more astringent than hydrosols which act more like “softeners”, preparing the skin for a moisturizer or providing a refreshing mist in the middle of the day. I also spray hydrosols on my foundation brush after dipping it in mineral makeup to give some extra hydration. I find this helps impart a more satiny finish and decreases the chance of the powder becoming chalky.

When I received word that Dabney had collaborated with Shelley Waddington of EnVoyage Perfumes to create a hydrosol from her newest perfume, my interest was more than piqued. I was intrigued that L’eau de Emblem Rouge is a flower water distilled with L’Emblem Rouge the perfume. But if you’re like me, I was having a hard time wrapping my brain around the perfume-hydrosol hybrid, so I wrote Dabney for clarification.

She explained that she began the process of L’eau de Emblem Rouge with Bourbon roses which are known for their lush and fruity scent. Along with the fresh roses, she also used Bourbon rose water that had been previously distilled, which is called double-distillation allowing for a stronger rosy fragrance. Once the water, Bourbon roses and Bourbon rose water were steaming, Dabney added L’Emblem Rouge on top of the distilling rose petals and let the magic unfurl.

The resulting flower water is extraordinary. Its sweet scent is rose happiness with a gentle measure of sandalwood and benzoin. But remember, this is not a perfume so the fragrance of L’eau de Emblem Rouge is meant to be light and ephemeral, which is how I prefer hydrosols. As a “softener” L’eau de Emblem Rouge feels nourishing, comforting and does a terrific job at prepping the skin for a moisturizer whether it be cream or oil.

The notes for L’Emblem Rouge are listed below and a lifetime gift of five percent of all L’Emblem Rouge proceeds are donated to Broadway Cares, a leading  nonprofit AIDS fundraising and grant-making organization.

Top Notes: Cassie, Mace, Cinnamon, Bitter Orange, Juicy Grapefruit, Green Pepper, Iranian galbanum, Violet, and Cistus

Heart Notes: Iranian Rose Otto, Ylang-Ylang, Heliotrope, French Jasmine sambac, Violet, and Honey

Base Notes: Guaiacwood, Sandalwood, Copaiba, Vetiver, Cedarwood Virginia, Tolu Balsam, Benzoin Siam, Tonka, Vanilla and Ambergris.

I have my own collaboration going on today with Carrie Meredith of eyeliner on a cat. Please head over to her blog for a full review of the perfume, L’Emblem Rouge. She and I are hosting giveaways for a mini roll-on of L’Emblem Rouge edp and a mini spray flacon of L’Eau de Emblem Rouge, so leave a comment on both our posts and increase your chances of winning! Drawing is now closed.

L’eau de Emblem Rouge is available at EnVoyageperfumes.com $25 for 0.35oz. L’Emblem Rouge, the EDP is $115 for 0.5oz or $40 for 0.25oz.

Image from The Glory of Roses by Allen Lacy

Share