Monthly Archives: July 2009

Los Angeles Part II: Blunda and Yosh

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Blunda

Los Angeles Report Part II brings us to my enchanted evening at Blunda where Yosh, Persephenie, and many botanical gems were discovered. Before I get to Yosh though, let me tell you about the benzoin! I had never smelled benzoin until this past weekend and could hardly pull my nose out of the jar that held this intoxicating substance which is made from the bark of the Styrax tree via cuts to release the resin. Above all, enticing vanilla wafted from the glass jar. Soft and supple, yet dirty and earthy as if you’d just pulled a piece of wood out of the soil. And the labdanum! I finally got to smell labdanum, another resin, utterly rich and musty. It also struck me as quite leathery with great depth and amazingly animalic for a botanical.

Hundreds of individual essences within Persephenie’s perfumer’s palette remained to be sniffed, but time was short and there was much to smell. Blunda is filled with a delicious array of natural fragrance offerings from Aftelier, Velvet and Sweet Pea, DSH, Artemesia, and Persephenie’s own bodycare line. I could have spent all evening poring over the gorgeous selection. And when one of my favorite perfumers, Roxana Villa walked through the door, I was thrilled not only to have the chance to chat with Roxana, but to experience the fragrances and essences with her was truly special.



YOSH-Winter-Rose

Of course we were all gathered to learn more about Yosh Han’s fragrance Winter Rose and the two fragrance installations, Dew and Sombra Negra, she created especially for the evening. Winter Rose is a 100% botanical fragrance that was inspired by Yosh’s travels through Turkey. Four rose attars along with cardamom are in Winter Rose, making for an inspired, authentic and slightly spicy rose fragrance. But it was the evening’s installations that really got my attention. Sombra Negra with its vetiver, patchouli, oak moss, and tobacco went into deep and dark territory that smoldered in LA’s summer heat. A little too much actually. I had to fan myself as I thought how Sombra Negra would be more appropriate in front of the fireplace upon autumn’s first chill. But Dew….Dew was perfection on that hot night. Why don’t more perfumers use fennel? It’s sheer genius with its crisp and refreshing bite. Yosh added honey absolute, citrus notes with lime, petitgrain and neroli and then a hint of sweet floral in ylang ylang. She created Dew in a gel base, which enhanced the cooling effect of the fragrance and heightened the sparkling anise quality of fennel. For those of you interested in purchasing Sombra Negra or Dew, there still might be some available through Blunda if you contact Persephenie.

If you do call the boutique, consider calling in an order for Persephenie’s Linden Blossom Dry Body Oil or the Nanu Lei Fizzy Wonders. I haven’t actually tried the bath fizzies yet because it has been outrageously hot since I’ve been home, but they smell heavenly! A luscious blend of coconut, cocoa butter, citrus, and tropical flowers. I can’t wait for the weather to cool down so I can enjoy an evening’s bath with one of my Nanu Lei Fizzies. I can attest to how wonderful the Linden Blossom Dry Body Oil is, as I have used it several times and it hydrates beautifully and smells like you’ve stepped out of a Maui spa. The linden blossom is warm and citrusy, almost honey-like, and I’m sure Persephenie has enhanced the oil with other citrus elements as well as tropical white florals and a spot of cocount. It lasts many hours on the skin and you can put it in your hair as well where I’m sure the scent would waft sublimely.


Persephenie and Yosh

Persephenie and Yosh

Blunda is truly an olfactory wonderland. Twice monthly visits (if not more) would certainly be the norm if I lived in Los Angeles. But more than the perfumes, body products and jars of botanical scents…it was the people of these natural perfume enclaves that made my trip exceptional. Persephenie was warm and welcoming; funny and kind. Yosh’s killer smile, along with her sharp intellect and charm-for-days left me giddy in her wake. Roxana Villa was a joy to finally meet. Her caring, astute, and vibrant nature put me at ease the moment I saw her. And if you read Part I, you know my experiences at Strange Invisible Perfumes and Le Labo were also remarkable. My friend in life and in scent (not to mention fabulous Los Angelean host), duVergne, might be getting another visit from me sooner than she realizes!

Posted by ~Trish


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Los Angeles Sniffing: Part I

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The reason for my Los Angelean journey was two-fold; to visit dear friends and attend Yosh’s perfume exhibit at the natural perfume studio, Blunda. Persephenie Schnyder, the owner of Blunda, has been hosting these events which allow perfumers to showcase their natural perfumes, discuss them, and most importantly, engage with us essence loving scent hounds.


SIP Boutique

But my Southern California adventure did not begin there. When my partner-in-sniffing-crime, duVergne, (who wrote about Ayala’s Blunda event here) picked me up from the airport, we headed straight for Venice. As some of you may know… this meant our destination was Strange Invisible Perfumes. I had never been to the SIP boutique, but immediately felt at home in the shop’s environment and plunked myself down at the bar which beautifully displays their Eau de Parfums and Pure Parfums. I knew duVergne and I would be there a while, and indeed we were. This was in large part due to Nic, one of the best, if not the best sales associate I have ever had the pleasure to meet. She was well versed regarding every scent and had intelligent and thoughtful comments about the fragrances whether they were on the test strips or on our skin. So yeah, we hung out with our new BFF for quite a while.


I finally got to experience SIP’s Black Rosette, an incredibly dry and resinous, leathery rose. Very unique and beautiful, but not quite what I wanted in the summer heat. (Come winter time, I could imagine wanting to cozy up to that one). Prima Ballerina is another rose offering from SIP, but entirely different from Black Rosette. It’s a pretty, rosy floral, with some sage and the subtlest of botanical musk making it an original rose, yet familiar and comforting at the same time. I’m in love with it and was this close to buying a bottle. What finally won the full bottle contest was Magazine Street, that perfect blend of vanilla and vetiver, with just a smidge of patchouli to really bring out vetiver’s herbal quality. I wrote about how much I adore Magazine Street here, so it’s no surprise that’s what I chose. Not to mention that in the Los Angeles summer heat, Magazine Street’s soft vanilla blossomed so elegantly. Yes…the deal was done.


Iris

We begrudgingly said our goodbyes to Nic and looked forward to the next day which started on the late side at The Little Next Door. (Many thanks to Ayala for that recommendation!) As fate would have it, Le Labo was unknowingly just a few blocks away. I had no idea I’d glean so much sniffing pleasure from a visit there. Again, a fabulous sales associate, Ellie, made all the difference. She was delightful to work with and allowed me to experience everything in the store at my own pace. Even though Le Labo does use synthetics, this is not always a deal breaker for me if I really love a fragrance and I am pleased to report that they do not use phthalates in their products. While most of the fragrances were interesting and unique, Iris 39 had me in its grip from the moment I sniffed it on the scent strip. So on the skin it went via their dry body oil. Le Labo’s Iris 39 brings forth the violet facet of iris that I love, but it’s not sweet or too precious. It’s also not powdery or soapy, but gently crisp without being woody. I need to spend more time with it, as well as the Oud 29 sample I received.


Le Labo was like a candy store as they have single essences, dried roots and herbs, as well as their Olfactionary for customers to explore. The Olfactionary contains vials of 40 essences, many of which I had never smelled. Tonka bean was probably my favorite single raw material. Alone, it smelled of tobacco, almond and vanilla. It was sweet and intoxicating. Ambrette oil had a beautiful contrast of sweet florals and boozy earthiness. Apart from the Olfactionary were jars of dried ambrette seeds which compared to the oil was much more tannic, similar to that of Hibiscus tea.


galbanum

Galbanum is not a part of the Olfactionary, but is available behind the counter to smell as well as at least 50 other raw materials. I was particularly enthusiastic about having the chance to partake in this cherished resin which blew me away with its grassy, bitter, herbal woodiness. It packs a mighty punch and I loved every inhalation! Smelling Le Labo’s iris root (orris) was also an extraordinary experience as I was stunned by its warm, mushroom-like quality and its simultaneous tang. It was not overly floral like the iris oil, and just the sight of these dried gems will take your imagination to an enchanted forest.

In the interest of keeping this post a reasonable length, I’ll continue it in a couple of days with more essence discoveries at Blunda as well as the details on Yosh’s exhibit!

Posted by ~Trish

SIP Boutique image from Citysearch
Iris image from http://www.herbarium.com/images/oldflowers/
Galbanum image from I Smell Therefore I Am

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Diptyque's L'Art Du Soin

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Diptyque’s new bodycare line, L’Art Du Soin or Art of Care, is based around the theme of travel and discovery. Each product has been inspired by a destination such as Florence or Cordoba for its ingredients and fragrance as well as its “gesture” as the Diptyque literature states. This of course sounds lovely, but my ears really perked up while visiting the San Francisco boutique this spring when I heard L’Art Du Soin was going to be free of phthalates, parabens, glycols, and PEG; glycols and PEG being petrochemicals. (Their literature also states no “aluminum or sulfates derived from petrochemicals.”)  Scrutinizing the ingredient lists shows that this does not mean 100% free of petrochemicals or synthetic fragrance, but to be fair, L’Art Du Soin appears to be extremely close. I know that many Scent Hive readers are Diptyque fans who must be thrilled they now offer products free of parabens and phthalates.

dipsoincoll


Lait Frais (Fresh Lotion): Inspiration, Alexandria on the Mediterranean

Smoothing Lait Frais on the skin is reminiscent of freshly crushed leaves that gives it a hearty green scent. It’s vibrant and lively; what you’d expect from a petitgrain fragrance as petitgrain is the essential oil extracted from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree. Petitgrain is often used in men’s colognes, but Lait Frais is unisex in the way that it will become feminine on a woman and masculine on a man. Honeyed orange blossoms appear further down the road, about an hour later, adding to its summery appeal. The lotion itself is nourishing and softens the skin with macadamia oil and organic sweet almond oil. Never greasy, Lait Frais is perfect for summer, especially humid climates. Impressive sillage is also part of the deal as its fragrance wafted around me as my arms swung, and after five hours it was still going strong.


Gelée Lactée (Creamy Body Wash): Inspiration Aleppo, Syria

Diptyque wants to “revive the pleasure of bathing” with this creamy, olive oil based body wash. I wasn’t aware this pleasure needed reviving, but Gelée Lactée certainly brings gratification to the shower. The milky wash produces an abundance of luxurious, foamy suds that has a silky slip on the skin. Rosemary, bay laurel, and lemon are the notes listed on the product information, but rosemary, which typically knocks your socks off with its aroma, was no where to be found. Instead, the shower was gently consumed by the scent of bay leaf and soothing citrus, which was both refreshing and serene.


Huiles Précieuses (Precious Oils): Inspiration Florence, Italy

Huiles Précieuses is a very masculine fragrance oil, loaded with soapy iris, and potent cedar. This was simply too strongly scented for me to use liberally so I can’t comment on its efficacy as a moisturizer. Ultimately it was my least favorite of the L’Art Du Soin line (even on my husband) as its derivative masculine scent was too tenacious and overbearing.


Creme Riche (Rich Butter): Inspiration Byzantium

Creme Riche is a very effective moisturizer laden with goodness for your skin like organic argan oil, organic honey and rose water. It’s silky and absobs rapidly, leaving no trace of the butter. Just smooth, soft skin. Myrrh and Damask Rose provide a lovely dusty, woody rose scent that lasts for hours.


Baume Généreux pour les Mains (Luxurious Hand Balm): Inspiration, Cordoba, Spain

Diptyque’s Luxurious Hand Balm is drop-dead gorgeous. Organic argan oil shows itself again as well as shea butter and apricot kernel oil in this luxurious concoction. With ingredients like that, it would be hard not to butter your hands up with nourishment. But even if didn’t, I’d still want this stuff all over me…it smells that good. Juicy apricots and the vanilla-covered almond flavor of tonka bean swirl over you after massaging this balm on your skin. Just try not to nuzzle yourself too much in public when you wear this.

L’art du Soin is available at Four Seasons Products, and Beautyhabit.com

posted by ~Trish

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Aftelier's Lumiere, Tango, and Antique Patchouli

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There’s nothing quite like the majestic beauty of the Oregon Coast. The rugged terrain of the evergreen forest meeting the water’s edge. New spits being created almost overnight. A continual reminder of nature’s enduring force.


I hadn’t been to the coast in a while, and took a quick trip with my family this weekend. When I first stepped out of the car and breathed my first breath of the evening’s coastal air, I was taken aback by the rich coolness of my inhalation. The redolence of the driftwood, the salt-kissed flowers, the bitterness of old seashells and the sweet anticipation of ordering ice cream had me reeling.


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Now that I am home from our quick jaunt, I have Mandy Aftel’s Lumiere on my skin. It smells like a beachy scent…an Oregon beachy scent. Blue lotus is one of the floral notes in the fragrance, and its East Asian origin could lean towards tropical imagery if it were paired with a white floral. But instead, boronia was chosen which lends to Lumiere a rustic tea-soaked fruit scent more in line with the Northwest Coast. Green tea absolute is also in the blend which of course enhances the tannic quality of boronia and augments the overall richness of the fragrance. Frankincense, which is present from the beginning and then fades upon the drydown, bestows elegance upon Lumiere and interestingly given the name, a darkness as well. Melancholic darkness that one frequently experiences at the Oregon Coast. Yet, morning clouds often give way to the bright luminescence of an afternoon sun. Just as Lumiere’s frankincense burns off to allow the floral fruits of boronia to shine a little brighter.


Tango, another Many Aftel creation, has an oceanic essence within its blend, roasted seashells. I’ve never had the opportunity to smell roasted seashells on their own, but I’d like to. In Tango, this essence creates a sexy, smoky aura that would most certainly be requisite for a fragrance bearing such a name. Champaca, along with delicious spices heighten the sensuality of the experience. Lest you think this fragrance is all about romantic desire, there is tension created with an intense inky note. Bitterness is present within the passion… a strong tango should convey such contrast. Tango the fragrance, unlike the dance, is allowed to evolve over many hours. The bitterness wanes, the smokiness fades, and Tango ends on a bed of honeyed sweetness and floral delicacy.


Antique Patchouli is one of Aftelier Perfume’s essential oil offerings. It hails from France and according to the Aftelier website, it has been aged for a few years and is the only patchouli oil Mandy Aftel will use in her blends. While I do not fall into the devoted patchouli-lover camp (although I do adore many fragrances that have patchouli in them) it’s not difficult to discern why Antique Patchouli has become the One Patchouli at Aftelier Perfumes. It possesses a highly unique minty quality that I have not yet experienced from patchouli, and its earthiness is so genuine I feel like I am hiking through an old growth rainforest after a storm when I smell it on my skin. It’s all about dark rich soil and herbal aromas, and it makes me want to pack my bags and go camping in the Hoh Rainforest on the Olympic Peninsula. (OK, for those who know me, maybe if there were a shower with warm water and a mattress to sleep on).

Aftelier Perfumes are available at Aftelier.com and Bendel’s in NYC. Aftelier products do not contain artificial colors, synthetic fragrances, petrochemicals, phthalates, or parabens. This is clearly stated on the website.


posted by ~Trish

photo by jphillipe at etsy.com
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Summer Pastimes and Fragrance. My Top 10.

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Big thanks to Ayala from Smelly Blog and Ayala Moriel Parfums for organizing this gathering of bloggers to celebrate summer and its scents. The following are some favorite summer pastimes, and my perfume pairings. Please see the bottom of the post for the other participating blogs.


santa monica pier 1920

 

• Sultry summer night in the big city: Ajne’s Fleur Blanche is a bold, sophisticated, true-to-life gardenia fragrance that would be perfect for strolling the streets of the big city, or dancing the night away. Fleur Blanche’s hint of smokey woodiness balances this heady indolic, tropical floral. It remains my favorite gardenia perfume and I consider it a must-try for any gardenia lover.

 

• International travel (or as I call it, the perfume you grab as you are heading out the door on your most recent trip to Canada): Hermes Kelly Caleche EDT is a crisp green floral; harmoniously blended with mimosa, iris, tuberose, climbing rose and leather. Certain floral notes peek out more conspicuously depending on the moment. Mimosa’s high-pitched sweetness often appears in the top-notes, the powderiness of the iris and softness of the rose are sometimes more prominent in the drydown. Regardless, Kelly Caleche is always a gorgeous summer-ready floral embraced by elegant leather. It’s wearable in any situation, whether it be museum going, café hopping, or discovering your city/town on bicycle. Give it another a try if it’s been a while.

 

• Summer siesta: I have two choices for this one; Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Tuberose and Gardenia Face and Body Frosting and In Fiore’s Dayala Body Balm. For sleeptime scents I love the ritual of smoothing a cream or balm on my hands. Even in the summer my hands are quite dry, and both Velvet and Sweet Pea’s Body Frostings and In Fiore’s Body Balms provide exceptional and luxurious hydration. VSP’s Tuberose and Gardenia is quite frankly… addictive. Vanilla bean infused organic jojoba oil creates the base of the scent and organic tuberose and gardenia enfleurage enhance this moisturizer with sensual tropical florals. As for Dayala, its jasmine grandiflorum is rich, luscious, and slightly indolic. Lemongrass in the Dayala blend provides a grassy green brightness, and the overall result is deep and beautiful.

 

• The Farmers’ Market: Farmers’ Markets are filled with smells of fruits, herbs and yummy baked goods so Honoré des Prés Sexy Angelic was the first fragrance that popped into my mind for this summer scent category. I’m going to be lazy here and cut and paste part of my recent June review:

Sexy Angelic is an ideal gourmand scent for the summer. It’s a light air-spun confection that wears easily in the warm weather. Sexy Angelic is centered around a calisson accord which was inspired by the town of Aix-in-Provence in the South of France. Calissons are treats made from a paste of sugar, melons and almonds that are covered with royal ice (white icing). Sexy Angelic entices its wearer with notes of licorice from angelica seeds and I gotta be honest here, I-don’t-know-what from Hemlock flowers. If you do, please let me know!

So I’ll focus on what I do know, and that is that Sexy Angelic is delectable. The calisson accord is loaded with crystallized sugary-almond goodness that is uplifted by the herbal licorice aspect. It’s lovely on the drydown as the green herbaciousness dissipates allowing for honeyed woods to meld into a skin scent. It’s the farthest thing from cloying or heavy and it just might be the gourmand for those of you who don’t typically go for gourmands.

 

• Something you’ll wear while tending to your summer garden: Bonny Doon Farm Rose Creme Parfum is made from olive oil, beeswax, jojoba oil, and Damascena rose wax. I don’t think this creme parfum was meant to be used as a moisturizer, but if you scoop out about a 1/4 teaspoon and rub into the top of your hand, you’ll find this beautifully scented rose perfume solid provides light hydration in addition to fragrance. When I wrote “it smells as if freshly picked rose petals have been infused into your skin, so tender and yet so vibrant” back in May,  I only had a sample of the Rose Creme Parfum. I have since purchased a pot ($16 for 0.5oz at Beautyhabit.com) and still feel the same way.

 

• Beach scent: Estee Lauder’s Bronze Goddess. Vetiver and coconut. Guilty pleasure. What more can I say? I love this stuff.

 

• Bar-B-Q scent: Ayala Moriel Parfums Tamya is no ordinary BBQ scent. On this summer menu, you need a Kir Royale as your drink and wild Coho salmon cooked on cedar planks on the BBQ. Tamya is Ayala’s version of a fruity floral; the fruits being cassis and yuzu, the florals jasmine, hyacinth, and frangipani (plumeria). Cedar contributes refinement and vanilla guides the way to a gorgeous drydown. A honeyed beeswax, ambery floral which is delicate yet mesmerizing.

 

• Meditation/Summer Incense Scent: Roxana Illuminated Perfume Chaparral is earthy and herbaceous, using the woody essence of the California Chaparral. Roxana’s gentle and expert hand with Frankincense and sage allow this to be a very accessible and seasonless incense fragrance. Chaparral never becomes weighted down with dark and smokey cathedral imagery. Quite the contrary. California breezes flow on your skin when you wear this, providing a reverence for the “Cathedral of Nature” as you close your eyes and meditate on the breath that sustains you.

 

• Best scent for an overcast day in the summer: Aftelier’s Orchid is perfect for those first days of summer that don’t start off as warm as you’d like. Oftentimes in the Pacific Northwest they are overcast and you need a little something juicy and spicy to snap you out of the doldrums. Orchid’s peppery opening commands your attention, grabs your hand, and leads you down a path of orange blossom bliss. As I said in my review, “It’s green, heady, lush, citrusy, and vital.” Indeed!

 

• Best scent for hiking in the forest: Soivoholé Vetiver n Guaiac is deep and rich in its earthiness, and full of vitality in its lavender herbaceousness. It’s spicy and complex, and continually evolves, as do hikes through Nature’s beauty. Vetiver n Guaiac has terrific staying power to last through a strenuous hike. And just as you complete your journey, you will be rewarded with a sublime vanillic floral drydown.

 

Bittergrace Notes

I Smell Therefore I am

Legerdenez

Moving and Shaking

Perfume Shrine

+Q Perfume Blog

Savvy Thinker

Smelly Blog

The Non-Blonde

Posted by ~Trish

Photo: Santa Monica Pier 1920 from Dr. X’s Free Associations

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Back From Vacation and In Fiore Winners

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First, let me announce the winners of the In Fiore giveaway, Barbara and Tao. Congratulations! I know you are both going to love sampling Julie Elliott’s line.

Mt Baker

So I am back from an eleven day vacation that included the San Juan Islands, Vancouver Island, and Vancouver BC. Our boys were in tow which went surprisingly well, but was nevertheless exhausting and it is so good to be home. The above photo was our view while on Lopez Island. A stunning view of Mt. Baker, the water, and loads of trees. There was a claw-foot tub that overlooked this view, and the bathroom was stocked with a local soapmaker’s goods that were divine. Bathing Beauty is the name of her tiny operation, and it’s only available at the Lopez Island farmers’ market. If you ever find yourself on this laid back, beautiful island, be sure to pick up her bar soaps and solid scrubs shaped like pastries.

Arghand Pebble Soaps

Next stop was Vancouver Island which included Sidney, Victoria and the quaint seaside town of Comox. A dear friend that I went to midwifery school with lives in Comox, so off we went to visit her and her family. Having my boys and husband on this trip, I knew I would not be getting in much perfume/body product shopping. But who knew perusing guest bathrooms would offer such opportunities? I was pleased as it was with my Lopez Island trials of Bathing Beauty products and then actually being able to buy them at the farmers’ market. When I stumbled upon a dish of Arghand soaps (Jessica wrote about these on Now Smell This about a month ago) in our Comox guest bathroom, I was surprised and elated. Fortuitously, they were a gift that had been purchased at a local pharmacy. Needless to say, I was more than happy to do my part in supporting the Arghand Coop that makes these soaps in Afghanistan, as well as the Comox economy. The above photo is of the Arghand Pebble Soaps and the bowl was made by ceramic artist Jeff Hanks and is available at the Chimera Gallery on Lopez Island.

Ayala

Vancouver BC was our final destination which for me, was one of the highlights. Not only is this city gorgeous with its mountainous, Pacific Coast splendor, but I was honored to have tea with natural perfumer, Ayala Sender. What a treat to chat with her and browse her entire collection. We sipped one of her delicious blends of tea, ate her perfumed chocolate truffles and homemade tea cookies. She was such a lovely host and even though we were able to visit for nearly three hours, I could not believe the time had flown by so quickly. I have exciting news to report: we Ayala Moriel Parfums fans have something very special to look forward to as Ayala will be launching a new perfume this fall. I am going to wait to review it, but I will say this…I love it!

I also found a new favorite clothing store called Maiwa. I was sitting with my husband and sons at Granville Island Market having a much needed late morning snack. A boutique caught my eye filled with beautiful Indian blockprint clothing, scarves, bags, bedding, etc. I celebrated my birthday while we were away, but had not picked out my gift yet. Well, as soon as I stepped foot in the shop, I alerted my husband that Maiwa was the place my birthday gift redemption would occur. Not only was I surrounded by sumptuous beauty, but the clothing and textiles are made by skilled artisans who are a part of a cooperative and have great respect from Maiwa’s founder. Maiwa is a part of the “Slow Clothes” movement which is in opposition to the factory approach to life and embraces the human involvement in all aspects of the production of their clothing. Not unlike small independently owned natural perfumeries, don’t you think? Their artisans also use natural dyes whenever possible like henna, marigold, and pomegranate. Since Maiwa’s products are only available in their store, I might have to make a pilgrimage back to Vancouver BC in the next few years to visit Ayala and buy more “Slow Clothes”.

Orca and baby

I hope many of you have had the chance to travel throughout the San Juan Islands, Vancouver Island, and Vancouver BC. The area is stunning, relaxed, and makes for a fabulous vacation. We really enjoyed the ferry rides, and even saw orcas on the way to Vancouver Island. Breathtaking!

Posted by ~Trish

Photos by ~Trish

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