Anya’s Garden: Rivercali

It’s such a pleasure to experience a perfume without having seen any advertising, marketing, or even peeked at the perfumer’s website. To be able to wear a fragrance relatively free of those associations and without expectations is a rarity these days of media overload. My only prelude to Rivercali was knowing that its creator, Anya McCoy, is a devout natural perfumer from Florida and that her little box of samples was so beautifully packaged that I could hardly stand to open it up. But open it I did, as I clearly had to get to the vials inside. Rivercali was the first one that caught my eye, and I dabbed away.

Rivercali is a lush walk through a dewy oceanside garden, abundantly adorned with citrus blossoms. Neroli and petitgrain waft like an ocean breeze, and make you want to roll up your pant legs and splash in the surf. Rivercali is supported by a rich floral base of Turkish Rose Otto, yet in no way would I label this a rose fragrance. The rose otto offers spice and strength, providing a foundation for the heart, but does not overpower Rivercali’s inherent tropical leafy greenness.

This flirty, citrusy floral continues through to the drydown where just a hint of sandalwood and vanilla show themselves. Only slightly though. Just as this is not a rosy scent, this is also not a woodsy or vanillic one either. It’s a lush blooming fragrance that is heaven for floral lovers. Especially those with a penchant for orange, lemon or lime blossoms.

As I mentioned above, Anya is a natural perfumer and never uses synthetics in her fragrances. She also uses organic, wildcrafted and sustainable essences whenever possible. Additionally, her perfumes are housed in boxes that are made from the sustainable Daphne plant and recycled paper. They are also imbedded with wildflower seeds, so you can plant the box and grow your own garden in a pot or in the ground.

Rivercali is available at Anya’s Garden. 

Posted by ~Trish

Bumble Bee by Hadley Hutton on etsy.


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In Fiore: Dayala Body Balm

I am recently back from my trip to San Francisco, and unfortunately did not get a chance to visit the In Fiore retail shop. They aren’t open on the weekends anymore, and don’t hold many retail hours in general. So I don’t have anything to report in terms of smelling their perfume solids like I had hoped. But, a few weeks ago I did get their Dayala Body Balm from Beautyhabit.com so I’ll go ahead and review that for you all.

bbtrio1-mDayala is a jasmine based fragrance like Maia, which I have previously reviewed here, yet it is more innocent and playful in comparison. The jasmine grandiflorum in Dayala is reminiscent of Maia, deep and gorgeous. But the lemongrass lightens the mood and adds brightness to the heady flower. So while Maia is sultry and smoky, Dayala is green and sunny. However, both possess the underlying jasmine that is stunning and unparalleled in its depth and richness.

infiore_dayalabb-thumbnaillarge1The Body Balm itself is luscious. Its base is made from grapeseed, organic jojoba oil, and vitamin E. The consistency is thick like a cream, but when it warms on the skin, it melts like an oil. Once applied, it absorbs quickly and doesn’t leave a greasy residue. I prefer to smooth it on my skin when I am just out out of the shower, before my skin is dry. I have noticed that the beautiful scent of fresh jasmine still lingers for days on my bathrobe if I wear it just after putting on Dayala. I know some of you were looking forward to In Fiore’s Maia being released in the Body Balm, which it hasn’t yet. But for those of you who just can’t wait to get your hands on a lovely, grassy green, slightly indolic jasmine, Dayala will certainly tide you over.

~Please keep your eye on the In Fiore website which will be updated in the next few weeks. When it is, you will find these gorgeous amulets offered. I also want to clarify that In Fiore never uses petrochemicals or synthetic ingredients, and this information was confirmed by the owner, Julie Elliott.

Dayala Body Balm is available at Beautyhabit.com and InFiore.net.

Posted by ~Trish

“Jasmine Flowers Bloom in Springtime at Sunset” by Jason Edwards at art.com

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Oracle Organics Earth Body Wash

Winners of the Chergui decants are SUZY and ALYSSA! Send me your addresses at scenthive@gmail.com and I’ll send them off ASAP. Congrats!

 

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I have several criteria that need to be met before I fall in love with a body wash. Easy to use packaging. Recyclable packaging. Reasonably priced. Rich and foamy, luxuriously cleansing lather. Wonderful smell. And last but not least, it needs to be made with ingredients I want and nothing I don’t want. Amazingly, Oracle Organics Earth Body Wash meets them all. So yeah, it’s pretty much a perfect match.

 

Thankfully I read about this little company based outside of Eugene, OR on Fig + Sage’s website. All of their ingredients are either organic, wildharvested or handcrafted without the use of chemicals. Additionally, all of their products are vegan and never tested on animals. Oracle Organics also does not use palm oil as, according to the owner Michelle Gomez, palm oil plantations are responsible for the destruction of Southeast Asia’s rainforests. (You can read more about that here on their website).

 

After perusing the Oracle Organics website, I knew I had to try a couple of their products. Not only did I appreciate their devotion to the environment, their full disclosure of ingredients as the gals pointed out in their review over at Fig + Sage, but I was also taken in by their lovely scent offerings. When I saw the Earth Body Wash with vetiver, it immediately went into my shopping cart. I was a little leary of the Douglas Fir in the description, but decided to give it a go. I am so glad I did. The vetiver lives up to the wash’s name with its earthy, balsamy scent. While the fir is barely perceptible, (no Christmas potpourri action thank goodness) it’s just enough to give it some green depth. There’s a touch of patchouli, but don’t be scared. Even though we’re talking Eugene, Oregon this is not a hippie scent. The delicate patchouli lends itself beautifully towards this warm earthy scent, and the abundant soapy lather that develops effortlessly.

 

I also tried the Ginger Lime Sugar Scrub which I will give a rave review for the product, but not so much for the scent. The scent part is really my fault though. I don’t like ginger and I’m not sure why I got it. I think it’s because the product description mentioned it being a “scent of the islands”, but I should have known better. I think I will try the Purify Sugar Scrub with mint and green tea next time because overall, I loved the scrub. The consistency is like a paste and is not messy at all. It’s not too granular, feels great on the skin and is nicely moisturizing. 

 

And I have great news! Not only is Oracle Organics reasonably priced to begin with, ($12 for the wash, $14 for the scrub) everything on the website is 25% off until the end of March. The discount is applied once you add the product to your shopping cart. 

 

Oracle Organics, available at their website.

 

Posted by ~Trish

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Scent Hive's First Giveaway! Decants of Chergui

361231I know it may seem unlikely that my first giveaway would be for a traditional, non-organic perfume, but there is a story here. This past holiday season, Victoria over at Bois de Jasmin held a charity raffle. Low and behold I won, and chose Chergui. Bois de Jasmin has been a wonderful source of information and inspiration to me over the years, so I wanted to take this opportunity to give Victoria some props and share her generosity.

 

I will refrain from reviewing Chergui and direct you to Bois de Jasmin for a lovely review instead. Today, my post is going to be short and sweet. To enter the drawing, simply leave a comment telling me why you love Chergui, why you are anxious to try it, or just say hello! I will pick two lucky winners at random to receive a 1/4oz decant of this beloved perfume. The two winners will be announced on March 24th after I return from my trip to San Francisco.

 

Chergui notes: honey, musk, incense, tobacco leaf, hay sugar, amber, iris, rose and sandalwood.

 

Chergui is available at Luckyscent and decants are available at The Perfumed Court.

 

Posted by ~Trish

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Strange Invisible Perfumes: Lyric Rain

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Testament

Oh, let it be a night of lyric rain
And singing breezes, when my bell is tolled.
I have so loved the rain that I would hold
Last in my ears its friendly, dim refraln.
I shall lie cool and quiet, who have lain
Fevered, and watched the book of day unfold.
Death will not see me flinch; the heart is bold
That pain has made incapable of pain.
Kinder the busy worms than ever love;
It will be peace to lie there, empty-eyed,
My bed made secret by the leveling showers,
My breast replenishing the weeds above.
And you will say of me, “Then has she died?
Perhaps I should have sent a spray of flowers.”
Dorothy Parker

I had read that Lyric Rain is an intensely strong patchouli perfume, so when I experienced a saturated stargazer lily quality for the first hour, I was taken aback. It was as if the giant flower were hanging from my neck, like an albatross. For me, stargazer lilies are dead weight in a room. Suffocating in their pungent nature, leaving no room for any other olfactory experience. This association might not make a lot of sense, but that was my intuitive response. One that was probably reacting to the highly potent patchouli and jasmine blend. But as the experience finally settled, or maybe lifted is a better word, the patchouli became more clear and also more soft.

Lyric Rain took on a lovely vintage perfume essence with soothing jasmine flourishes. But keep in mind, this “mellowing” of the patchouli is in comparison to its overbearing beginning. Lyric Rain is a patchouli scent through and through. I’m not sure this would be the fragrance to turn a non-patchouli person into the patchouli lover they want to become. But if you adore patchouli, this glorious gem will evolve on your skin and allow you to experience your beloved patchouli in new ways.

The above Dorothy Parker poem inspired Alexandra Balahoutis, founder and perfumer of Strange Invisible Perfumes, to create Lyric Rain. As an interesting side-note, I read the poem after I had the stargazer lily association. Lilies are so often funeral flowers. The flowers we bring to graves, and this poem clearly is about making peace with death, and one’s own burial. Maybe that is why this perfume is so laden with patchouli. Ms. Balahoutis possibly wanted to stir the wetness of the earth, which patchouli certainly evokes. And jasmine echoes the pungent nature of lilies, and also the vintage nature of Ms. Parker’s poem. The mix of poetry and perfume is intriguing and emotive. For a wonderful exploration of the relationship between poetry and perfume, please take a peek at this blog that is no longer active, but certainly thought provoking and beautiful.


Lyric Rain is available at Strange Invisible Perfumes and only in the parfum concentration.

Strange Invisible Perfumes does not use any synthetically derived chemicals and all of their products are crafted solely from ingredients found in nature. They use organic beverage-grade grape alcohol as the base for their perfumes. 85-100% of their product is organic and they use organic ingredients whenever possible. Please see their site for more on their green mission.



posted by ~Trish


photograph by Steve Roberts at www.srphotos.co.uk, published with permission by artist.

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Pacifica Update!

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After I posted my review of Pacifica’s Spanish Amber perfume, there was some concern in the comments about the use of synthetic ingredients in their formulations. I corresponded directly with owner Brook Harvey-Taylor and she clarified this issue. Pacifica’s products contain 85-95% naturally derived ingredients, with most products falling on the high end of this scale. And to be clear, their products (perfumes, lotions, washes, etc) do not contain petrochemicals, parabens, sulfates, synthetic dyes, phthalates, GMOs, or triclosan (an anti-bacterial derived from benzene). In addition, Pacifica adheres to the following practices:

 

•No animal testing or ingredients
•Manufactures in the USA
•Works with local suppliers
•Provides full health and dental benefits for all employees
•Provides full 401K and 125 savings for all employees

 

(I also like the fact that the perfume solids are made with organic soy and coconut wax and the tins are recyclable!)

 

In the spirit of putting closure on this issue, I will not be opening this post up to comments. If you have any specific questions about my correspondence with Brook or have a question you would like me to ask her, please contact me at scenthive {at} gmail {dot} com.

 

Posted by ~Trish

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Guerlain Apres L'Ondee

I’m not going to write many reviews for “traditional” perfumes on Scent Hive unless it is really, really special. And well, Apres L’Ondee is really, really special. It’s difficult to know where to begin discussing this fabled perfume, as so much has already been poetically written in its regard. It’s been said to makes one’s heart sing, be worthy of a Pablo Neruda poem, and even bring clarity to the Tao Te Ching. How does one follow that? Simply by saying I agree, and I’ll match it with my own lyrical association.

When5268 I wear Apres L’Ondee I feel like I am listening to Tears For Fears’ Songs From the Big Chair. I know that I am narrowing my demographic here, but you know who you are, and you know what I mean. Every song from that album is melancholic, bewitching, and haunting; yet utterly accessible. Just like Apres L’Ondee, the fragrance named for sunlight after a rainshower. This may be sacreligious for some of you Apres L’Ondee worshippers that I am comparing this beloved perfume to an 80′s pop album. But trust me, it’s a really good album.

yhst-28138111413323_2039_406302397In all seriousness. I do love Songs From the Big Chair and I do love Apres L’Ondee. Both evoke a nostalgic longing that is at once melancholic and hopeful. There is something vintage-esque about violets and you can’t help but want to reminisce in their presence. Fortunately, Apres L’Ondee does not allow for protracted despondent reflection as the bergamot provides a green and uplifting opening and iris asserts itself at the heart with its floral edge. The vanilla base then keeps it smooth and sweet around those edges, so if you were about to cry over a broken memory, you’ve been given the softest pillow to lay your head. Apres L’Ondee is so lovely as you will read on many blogs, and as they say, it’s just heartbreakingly gorgeous.

~Decants of Apres L’Ondee are available at The Perfumed Court

Posted by ~Trish

“Purple Violet with Green Leaves” at art.com

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Red Flower Ambrette and Guaiac

A few days ago I reviewed Red Flower’s organic perfume Champa and gave a brief overview of the company’s founder Yael Alkalay. Today, I will continue with reviews of Ambrette and Guaiac. Like Champa, Ambrette and Guaiac are USDA certified organic and have no petro-chemicals, phthalates, or synthetics.

Ambrette begins quite citrusy. 16674-300A well blended, bitter orange that is a bit spicy with no hint of sweetness. As the name suggests though, this fragrance is not about citrus, it is all about ambrette, the seed of the hibiscus flower. The oil of these seeds has a musky, slightly ambery odor, and that is right where we are headed with Ambrette.

As the drydown progresses the citrus disappears, and the muskiness takes over. I must add a disclaimer here, I do not like musk. And while Ambrette is not a skin musk, or a white musk, or a clean musk, it is a musk. I know that many will love this fragrance because it is a different take on musk. The rose and geranium give it a soft floral quality and the ambrette oil endows it with a vegetal, green muskiness. If you do love Ambrette, you are in luck, this fragrance has great throw and lasts all day, especially in the perfume concentrate form.

david-murray-calamondin-orange-october-ronda-spainGuaiac is vibrant, zesty orange rind. Not the juice, or the pulp, but the rind. As if you were actively grating an orange and rubbing its vivacious oils onto your skin. It’s fresh and spirited, but in a new way. Guaiac is a citrus fragrance that I have never smelled before. It’s not floral (although rose absolute is listed in the notes), therefore, not akin to neroli or orange blossom. I had to do some research regarding copaiba, cabrueva, and elemi, the notes listed on the Red Flower website. I had already looked up elemi for my review of Pacifica’s Spanish Amber. (It’s a tree native to the Philippine Islands and its resin has a sharp lemonish scent). Both copaiba and cabrueva are resin oils from trees that hail from South America. The former having a warm honey-like scent and the later a sweet woody, floral aroma. It was certainly interesting to learn a little bit about these resin oils, and while I’m sure they add some supporting body to the fragrance, it truly is the orange rind that predominates.

Unlike Ambrette, whose name is very descriptive, Guaiac does not become a woody fragrance as its name would suggest. The guaiac tree is indigenous to South America, where Ms. Alkalay’s mother is from, and its oil has a woody fragrance.  Guaiac remains within the citrus range, morphing into the bitterness of grapefruit as the drydown emerges. I was able to test Guaiac in both its forms, the perfume roll-on which is an oil base, and the perfume concentrate which is in an organic wheat-grain alcohol base. Both have excellent staying power and wear close to the skin. The main difference between the two, is that the perfume concentrate allows a hint of the woody aspect to surface while the roll-on perfume oil remains citrusy throughout.

Out of all three Red Flower perfumes, Guaiac is my favorite. It’s clear and sparkling and unlike anything I have in my perfume collection. Each Red Flower perfume has something to offer, but Guaiac gives me the perfect citrus fragrance that is never sweet and never boring.

Red Flower is available at Luckyscent and Beautyhabit

posted by ~Trish

photograph by David Murray at www.art.com

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Red Flower Champa

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Red Flower was founded by Yael Alkalay in 1999 with a set of six candles, two organic teas, and a vision for people to create ritual and beauty in their everyday lives. Ms. Alkalay’s heritage is Russian, Bulgarian and Argentinean and she acknowledges her lineage within her products. For example, the mint and lavender used in select Red Flower body products are sourced from Cordova, Argentina where her mother’s family is from. She also spent five years in Japan when she was the creative director for Shiseido and one can sense her admiration of Japanese culture just from perusing the Red Flower website. Additionally, there is a Red Flower Japan line dedicated to the traditional Japanese bathing ritual. Ms. Alkalay’s tranquil aesthetic is matched only by the peaceful energy she seems to exude, at least here in this video.

Lucky for us perfume lovers, Ms. Alkalay branched out from candles, tea and body products and into the world of fragrance. She has created three USDA certified organic perfumes that contain no petro-chemicals, no phthalates and no synthetics. I will be reviewing Champa here;  Ambrette and Guaiac will follow in a few days.

42100Several floral notes are listed for Champa including champa flowers, mimosa, jasmine, osmanthus and ylang ylang. And while there are some potentially grating choices for me in this blend (I’m talking to you mimosa and ylang ylang), the flower that predominates is a soft spoken champaca. Champaca flowers have several names. Champa is a common Hindi name, as well as the Joy Perfume Flower, since it is one of the primary notes in Patou’s Joy. It is native to Southeast Asia, and the flowers are used to scent rooms, decorate bridal beds, and anoint the hair. Of course the essential oil is also used in perfumery, such as in Joy and in Red Flower’s Champa.

Even though champaca is the namesake flower and predominant note of this perfume, Champa ultimately is a blend of delicate florals that serve as the foundation for a nag champa incense experience. Although it’s not so much the smell of incense smoke or even smelling the sticks of nag champa in their box. Red Flower’s Champa smells of a freshly burnt pile of nag champa ash, which generates a new take on the incense fragrance. Its heart is floral, flowing, and smoky.

Once Champa settles and the drydown emerges, the smoky quality dissipates somewhat, allowing the osmanthus to surface and its accompanying apricot accord. The fruitiness is mellow, with hints of melon. Overall, Champa is a gauze-like floral layered over a smoky beginning and an osmanthus/apricot ending. Very worth trying in the oil-based roll-on version that is small, but easily portable and a little goes a long way.

Red Flower Champa is available at Beautyhabit and Luckyscent.

Posted by ~Trish

Champaca flower photo by rbuzatto on flickr

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Pacifica Spanish Amber

Pacifica makes a bold claim on its website. “This is the best Amber in the world.” I am not an amber lover, so I can neither confirm nor deny that statement, but I certainly love their confidence. And I do love their business model. Take a look at the founders’ Standards and Ethics and you’ll know they have a deep commitment not only to the environment, but also to the health of their customers and employees.

Not being one who is enamored of amber, I had not actively educated myself about this particular scent. But I recently read Mandy Aftel’s “Essence and Alchemy” and learned that amber is actually a blend of several scents. Typically labdanum, which is a resin from a Mediterranean shrub; benzoin, which is a secretion of the Styrax tree, and vanilla. There are other blends that can go into an amber resin, but this represents a simple example. So it’s no surprise that Spanish Amber’s notes are amber resin, as well as rose gernanium, sandalwood, bergamot, and elemi. (Elemi is a tree native to the Philippine Islands, and its fragrant resin oil apparently has a sharp lemonish scent, which for the record is no where to be found in this fragrance).

Spanish Amber comes in both a perfume solid and spray perfume. I tried them both, and they are very similar in scent and their excellent lasting power. The base of the solid perfume is organic coconut wax, organic soy wax, and non-GMO hydrogenated soy wax. Applying the solid perfume was very sensual. It warmed easily and absorbed well. The fragrance itself is definitely for amber lovers. But fair warning to the amber connoisseur, I would not call this complex or sophisticated. It’s a lovely, soft, straightforward amber that is wearable for even someone like myself who typically shies away from anything with amber in the name. For the first few hours, neither the rose geranium nor the bergamot assert themselves, and the sandalwood is present just enough to provide a gentle footing to assure the amber plays nice. Yet, after about five hours of wear Spanish Amber did evolve somewhat and the sandalwood emerged as well as a hint of vanilla which was not so prevalent in the initial amber mix.

And can I get an Amen? solids-group-fall-08-standardimageThe price of these fragrances is just what the penny-pinching perfumista ordered! $9 for the perfume solid and $22 for the perfume spray. I say go for the perfume solid. They are portable, really cute, and the scent lasts for hours. And if you’re like me and amber isn’t your thing, not to worry, their selection is outstanding. I will be reviewing more of their fragrances since they are so affordable. Pacifica also makes wonderful body butters and candles. Additionally, Pacifica products are free of parabens, propylene glycol, phthalates and lead wicks.

Pacifica is available at their website, Sephora, Whole Foods, and probably your local health food store.

Update: I emailed Pacifica customer service to ask about petroleum ingredients in their products as well as the use of synthetic aroma-chemicals in their perfumes/perfume solids. The answer back was: They do not use petroleum based ingredients in their perfumes and body products but they do use paraffin in their pillar candles, (but not their soy candles) and please see this post for more detailed information regarding synthetics.


Posted by ~Trish

“Amber Solo” by Lisa Ridger on art.com

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